There’s a new brewery in town, burnishing Astoria’s reputation as a craft beer oasis.

Seaside-based Sisu Brewing Co. has quietly expanded, opening its second brewpub in the former Astoria Food Hub building on Marine Drive.

The low-key opening took many by surprise since there’s no sign out front — just black-and-gold letters on the front doors and a row of inviting sidewalk tables.

The family-friendly restaurant/taproom represents the first of several phases that will ultimately offer river-view dining and drinking, and a brewhouse complete with canning line that should serve the brewery for many years to come.

“This is going to be a very popular spot,” beertender Justin Roberts predicted shortly after the April 28 opening. “It’s going to be cool.”

The company that owns Sisu and other Seaside attractions and restaurants bought the 90-year-old downtown building last fall.

The brewery, founded in 2021, is currently shoehorned inside the historic Times Theatre in downtown Seaside, with most of the tanks tucked behind the roll-down movie screen. There’s no room to expand. Canning isn’t possible.

There’s ample room at the Astoria location, however. 

A 30-barrel brewing system purchased from Three Creeks Brewing in Sisters awaits while major construction on the north side of the building and the sprawling basement is underway. That work is expected to take months. A separate wastewater treatment system will likely be mandated by the city.

While that process plays out, Sisu is content to introduce its beers to Astorians, trucking in kegs from Seaside.

The brewery is part of a multifaceted development company owned by the Utti family of Seaside.

Brewers Nick Nelson and Nick Richardson, who playfully refer to themselves as “the two Nicks,” have created a diverse taplist, including IPAs, stouts and lagers.

The Uttis are proud of their Finnish ancestry: “sisu” is a word meaning tenacity and grit. That spirit is reflected in the names of many of the beers, including Indomitable Spirit Imperial Stout, Moxie Cream Ale, Mettle Lager and Rock-Ribbed Pale Ale.

Sisu follows in the footsteps of Buoy Beer Co., which operated a brewpub in the Food Hub building for a couple of years.

Buoy ended its lease on Dec. 31 and moved its taproom and affiliated Pilot House Distilling tasting room to the former Reach Break Brewing location off Duane Street. 

Sisu’s new building has a wide-ranging past. It was constructed in 1935 as a warehouse for Mason, Ehrman & Co., a wholesale produce distributor. It would later house a Sears store for many years. In 2022, the building became the home of the North Coast Food Web.

In Astoria, Sisu is offering a full pub-style menu, including halibut fish and chips, salmon sandwiches, burgers and clam chowder, plus appetizers and salads. 

The lower half of the remodeled space that faces Marine Drive features picnic tables with long benches. Up some stairs in the back, a dozen beer taps are fronted by a five-seat bar. Wine, cider, cocktails and non-alcoholic beverages are also available. 

Sisu Brewing’s Astoria brewpub, 1152 Marine Dr., is open seven days a week, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

William Dean is an author who also writes about craft beer and the people who make it. His blog is Astoria Beer Zone. “The Have-Nots,” his latest novel, is available now.