When I make anything in a loaf tin, I get nervous that the center isn’t baked. This is probably why I never make a “quick baking loaf” anything. However, I have no fear when it comes to a bundt. Fear is sometimes irrational. It probably stems from unexplored trauma in a past life. And honestly, a loaf doesn’t conjure images of a dazzling baked good. 

When I’m in an airport, there is the same food court shop in every location. I’m not a fan of their coffee — although it’s consistent — but there is one baked good they serve that I can’t resist: the lemon loaf. I’m sure it’s full of chemical additives and enhancers, but sometimes science is delicious. 

So I don’t have to break out my sunglasses at the airport and slink over cautiously to buy a slice of lemon loaf, I made one at home. It was delicious, sans chemicals, unless you count the leaveners. 

The center was baked, of course, why wouldn’t it be? But have a supply of wooden cake testers, to soothe that voice of doubt in your head. 

Lemon loaf

Makes one loaf, about 4.5 by 8.5 inches

Cake

• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 2 tablespoons lemon zest (from two large lemons)
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• Two large eggs, room temperature
• 1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
• 1/4 cup neutral oil
• 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
• 1/3 cup sour cream, room temperature
• 1 2/3 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/3 cup whole milk, room temperature

Icing

• 1 cup powdered confectioner’s sugar
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• Pinch kosher salt

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Line loaf tin with parchment.  

In a large bowl, combine sugar and lemon zest and rub them together until the sugar is fragrant. Add the lemon juice and eggs and whisk until the sugar is dissolved. Add melted butter, oil, vanilla and sour cream, and whisk well.

Next, sift flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt into a medium bowl.

Add the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt and fold it in gently. Add milk and continue to fold gently until the dry ingredients are incorporated. Be sure to not overmix.

Spoon the batter into the prepared pan and spread it out evenly. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, or until a wooden skewer comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a rack to cool for 10 minutes. Lift the cake out of the pan and let it cool completely. 

For the icing, combine confectioner’s sugar, lemon juice and salt in a medium bowl and whisk until the mixture is smooth. It should be thick but still flowing. Pour the icing over the loaf, spread it out to drip over the edges a bit and then let it set until the icing dries out. Slice and serve.