When I used to teach baking classes, a question that came up frequently was, “What’s the difference between a biscuit and a scone?” The line is blurry. I don’t think there’s a definite answer, because of the definitions of biscuit and scone.

The Webster’s Dictionary definition of a biscuit is unflattering. To Webster, a biscuit is a “hard or crisp dry baked good.” The definition of a scone doesn’t fair much better. Then you throw into the mix, “What is a shortcake?”

At this point in my life, I don’t care about that level of technicality. As long as it’s delicious and baked during the short strawberry season, I’m satisfied.

Strawberry shortcake is a quintessential summer dessert, especially when made with local ripe strawberries. While you can salvage less than pristine strawberries for a shortcake, what’s the point? It’s just going to make you sad.

My secret for harnessing the full flavor experience for a strawberry shortcake is to slather your shortcake (or biscuit, or scone) with strawberry jam first. It’s next-level deliciousness.

Strawberry shortcake

Adapted from Melissa Clark and Smitten Kitchen, serves six to eight

Ingredients

• 1 pound fresh, ripe, local strawberries, trimmed and

sliced 1/4-inch thick

• 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

• 1 teaspoon of lemon juice

• Strawberry jam

• 2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

• 2 1/4 teaspoons baking powder

• 3/4 teaspoon baking soda

• 3 tablespoons granulated sugar

• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

• 6 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter, cut into

1/2-inch pieces

• Two large egg yolks

• 3/4 cup heavy cream, plus 2 to 3 tablespoons

• 3 tablespoons chunky or granulated sugar

• 1 cup heavy cream

• Sugar, to taste

Preparation

Heat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, granulated sugar and salt until combined. Add butter and, using a pastry blender, break it into pea-sized bits.

In a small bowl, whisk yolks with a splash of cream, then pour the rest of the cream in and whisk to combine. Pour into the butter and flour mixture and use a rubber spatula to mix into one cohesive dough.

Remove the dough from the bowl and form into a 1-inch high circle on a floured countertop. Keep the dough as cold as possible.

Next, divide the dough into six to eight shortcakes using a biscuit cutter. Place each shortcake on the prepared baking sheet. Brush with heavy cream, and sprinkle with sugar. Bake for 14 to 16 minutes until lightly golden. Let cool on a cooling rack.

While baking the shortcakes, mix the strawberries, sugar and lemon juice in a bowl and let macerate so that the juices run.

In a large bowl, make whipped cream by beating heavy cream until soft peaks form. Add sugar to taste. Carefully split each cooled shortcake with a serrated knife. Slather the bottom with strawberry jam, then spoon berries and their juices over the bottom half. Heap generously with whipped cream and place shortcake “lid” on top.