It’s been more than 15 years since I’ve eaten at Dooger’s Seafood & Grill in Cannon Beach. Let’s just say I was hesitant to return after a bad experience.

Last fall, when a friend suggested that we go to Dooger’s for Happy Hour to celebrate our birthdays, I reluctantly obliged. Quickly, I discovered that I’d been missing out on something all these years. We climbed the stairs to the skylit bar, past an impressive collection of Cannon Beach Sandcastle Day posters, and snuggled into a cozy booth near a welcoming fireplace.

The clean open space, illuminated with natural light and warmth, was completely different that what I’d experienced years ago. Granted, we were upstairs in the bar, sans children, but I couldn’t help noticing how clean and welcoming the restaurant had become.

The same warm feeling is echoed in the downstairs dining room, where everything is spotless – even the condiment bottles on the tables were sparkling clean. Partially lit with skylights reaching up through the bar and a row of overhead skylights facing south, Dooger’s takes advantage of the natural beauty of the ocean light. Lined with wooden walls and high-beamed ceilings, with turquoise carpets and dark wooden furniture, the restaurant feels calm and sophisticated. Tables are nicely spaced, with glass bricks and metal dividers offering privacy.

Seafood is Dooger’s specialty and, after four visits, friends and I have been impressed with the quality and freshness each time. A chalkboard in the dining room lists “Fresh of the Day,” which on a recent visit included Dungeness crab and petrale sole (from the Oregon coast), oysters and steamer clams (from Willapa Bay) and salmon (from British Columbia), among others.

Dooger’s clam chowder has won numerous awards and accolades from major publications, so my expectations ran high. The beauty of this chowder is that, unlike many other versions, it is not gooey and thick from cornstarch, but rather light and silky from cream and half-and-half. Tender chopped clams are the star here, with potatoes taking a distant second. Lightly seasoned with herbs, the pure flavor of clams and their nectar shines through. My only problem was with what I discerned as the flavor and texture of canned potatoes. But for a high-volume restaurant, Dooger’s clam chowder is high on my list.

Under “Seafood,” lightly breaded and fried petite oysters from Willapa Bay were super fresh, crisp and golden. The Admiral’s Platter features an assortment of seafood, including crab legs, razor clams, salmon, scallops, prawns, halibut and calamari. With all seafood entrees, diners have a choice between lightly coated and fried, sautéed and Cajun style. I chose to have mine sautéed, in order to taste the seafood’s pure flavors. The razor clam was the only exception. Lightly battered and fried, it was sweet and tender.

Whole crab legs, scallops and prawns, along with small cuts of salmon and halibut, were all sweet and fresh, served in a buttery sauce. I’m not a fan of calamari steaks, preferring rings and tentacles. Here, they were sliced into thin strips, which were a bit rubbery and unrecognizable – the only disappointment.

Wrapped in crisp bacon, a filet mignon proved to be one of the best steaks I’ve tasted recently. Well-aged, tender beef was nicely seasoned and seared to medium rare. It was melt-in-your-mouth beef with bold meaty flavors – how steaks are supposed to be. Under “Pasta,” linguini in Alfredo sauce comes plain or topped with options, including chicken and seafood. These creamy, lightly herbed noodles are comfort food. Main dish salads feature traditional Louies, among others.

Laurence Roberson, left, and his wife Pam, hidden, enjoy a seafood meal at Dooger’s in Cannon Beach with Wim Winter, right, and his wife Joanna.With each entrée comes a simple, crisp, green salad topped with fresh shrimp and a choice of flavorful housemade salad dressings. Meals also come with fries, rice or baked potato and garlic toast. Interestingly, there are no vegetables to be found, except for a side order of steamed vegetables or coleslaw.

A number of desserts are housemade, including Key lime pie and marionberry cobbler. Chocolate fudge cake with layers of chocolate wowed my chocoholic neighbor. The marionberry cobbler was OK, but the berries were overly thickened and lacked flavor. I watched a waitress pass by delivering a slice of Key lime pie to a nearby table, and it looked delicious. I’m going for that next time, unless I head upstairs to the bar for one of Dooger’s specialty coffee drinks made with Kahlua and Courvoisier.

Dinners are also served upstairs in the cozy lounge (21 and older only), so if you are in for a quieter atmosphere, head upstairs. For family dining, the main floor at Dooger’s offers a casual atmosphere with some of the freshest seafood around.

In addition to its Cannon Beach location, Dooger’s Seafood & Grill (a family-owned operation) has three more locations along the Pacific Coast, each with its own ambience and hours.

? 505 Broadway, Seaside, (503) 738-3773

? 103 U.S. Highway 101 S., Warrenton, (503) 861-2839

? 900 Pacific Ave. S., Long Beach, Wash., (360) 642-4224