In 1867, chef Charles Ranhofer of New York Citys legendary Delmonicos Restaurant created a decadent dessert of baked ice cream in celebration of the United States purchase of Alaska from Russia, and he called the confection baked Alaska. Over 130 years later, a Baked Alaska of our own cropped up right here in Astoria minus the giant real estate deal, but every bit as triumphant, and rightfully so.

In 2001 chef Christopher Holen and wife Jennifer opened Baked Alaska on the 12th Street docks of Astoria, providing diners a panoramic view of the Columbia River. But diners dont just come for that; the food is also exceptional.

I began my recent dinner at Baked Alaska with the appetizer of prosciutto-wrapped prawns and scallion pesto, and it tasted sinfully delicious, the sort of dish that is difficult to eat without moaning aloud in an unseemly fashion. I was pleased that the pesto did not include basil, which would have been too intense, but instead arugula, honey and orange juice, which gave a mellow sweetness to the saltiness of the prosciutto.

A second appetizer, a fondue of asiago and pepper jack cheese with chunks of sourdough and apple slices, was also delicious.

Next up, a cup of clam chowder. I admit here and now that I am not particularly fond of clam chowder, or razor clams; they are almost always overcooked, and if any grit is present at all it can spoil an entire dish. This particular chowder, though, was smooth and savory, the perfect consistency (not too thick or thin), and the chunks of potato and clam were varied and pleasing.

My first entrée was the crab and mushroom Pernod fettuccine, and the steaming, heavenly aroma wafted toward the table before our server even rounded the corner. Cremini and oyster mushrooms sautéed with sweet onions, garlic, parsley, and crab meat with a splash of Pernod and white wine over a bed of fresh fettuccine was, in a word, heavenly. The anise flavor of the Pernod against the earthiness of the mushrooms was an excellent, flavorful pair, while the onions, garlic and parsley melted seamlessly into the cream sauce.

As a second entrée I chose the special. Having a background in the food service industry, I am often hesitant to try the special, because in many restaurants a special is concocted from ingredients that are soon to expire. On this evening, though, the special was lamb, and I simply couldnt say no. It proved to be an excellent choice. The lamb was roasted to perfection with sage and rosemary and topped with bourbon demi-glace, and it was served with fingerling potatoes and roasted broccolini. Lamb, depending on the cut, age and preparation, can often taste gamey, but Baked Alaska prepared it beautifully, allowing the natural flavors to emerge: delicate, subtly spicy, and so succulent it fairly melts off the fork. The texture of the savory fingerling potatoes were an apt accompaniment and the only flaw in the dish was the broccolini, which was over roasted. With lamb so delicious, though, who really cares about the broccolini? After one bite I skipped it entirely, and the meal was none the lesser for it.

On an already-full stomach I chose the cutely named half-baked Alaska for dessert (theres a separate stomach for desserts anyway, isnt there?): a giant, chocolate-chip cookie topped with ice cream and set afire tableside with brandy. I felt the flambé element was unnecessary and more spectacle than flavor-adding, but it didnt detract from what can only be described as yum.

The service was also quite good. Our server was attentive and even spoke to the chef on my behalf when I inquired about the secret ingredients of the delicious scallion pesto.

The prices are expectedly on the higher end (entrees start at $18 and top out at $28), but the quality of the food and ample portion size reflects it, and there are some deals to be had. There are 50 wines available by the bottle for $25, and several entrees are included in a $25, three-course, fixed-price menu, which includes chowder, soup or salad, an entrée and dessert. There are also several vegetarian options. Reservations are recommended and can conveniently be made online.