The golden chanterelle mushroom sprouts from mossy, coniferous forests of the Pacific Northwest between July and November.

As a young man, I hunted the golden chanterelle in the fall. A changing environment has expanded the season — warmer, more humid. At the end of July, I stumbled across a basketful of these tasty fungi.

Let me express my delight: I wait all year for the opportunity to pick and eat these most special of mushrooms. Early on, they are dry and nutty. Let me say, c’est parfait. Perfect!

This chanterelle sauce can be applied to pasta, rice or even polenta. But dang — fettuccine is my first love.

Chanterelle pasta

Ingredients

• 8 ounces dry fettuccine

• 1 pound chanterelle mushrooms

• 1/2 pound bite-sized ham or chicken bits

• Three cloves garlic, smashed and finely

diced

• 2 tablespoons peanut oil

• 3 tablespoons butter

• 1/2 onion, medium-diced

• 1/2 red pepper, small-diced

• 5 tablespoons flour

• 1/2 cup dry white wine

• 1/2 cup chicken stock

• 1 cup heavy cream

• 2 tablespoons freshly chopped basil

• 1 tablespoon dried mushroom dust

• Sea salt, cracked pepper, red chili flakes

and parmesan to taste

Preparation

Cook off the pasta and hold. Chop or tear the chanterelles into bite-sized pieces. Hold. Sauté the garlic and onion until translucent in the butter mixture and then add the vegetables and chanterelles.

Cook a couple more minutes and add the ham. Sprinkle in the flour and stir until incorporated. This is the roux. Brown another couple of minutes. Slowly deglaze with the wine, pour in the stock and then the cream. Turn down the heat and simmer softly.

Add the mushroom dust, chili flakes, salt and pepper. At the last minute, sprinkle in the basil and serve on the warm fettuccine. Fresh-grated parmesan is the fitting finale.

A green salad is a perfect side. A dry Gewürztraminer is a fine match. For me, this is as good as Thanksgiving.