There are very few things I’m jealous of other than human hair. I started losing mine in my early 20s. I’ll never forget the person that first pointed out my little bald spot, and I’ll never forgive them. Honestly, I’ve gotten over it, and now that I’m in my 50s I have other things to worry about, hello cholesterol. 

The other thing I covet is a garden with a rhubarb plant. On moving to Astoria, I quickly gave up the idea of a garden when I discovered my yard was an unofficial deer highway. The deer were here first, and I don’t have the energy to fight a tidal wave. 

I know that deer don’t eat rhubarb, because of the poisonous leaves, I’m still not quite sure how they figured that out. But a rhubarb-only garden once seemed ridiculous, but it doesn’t anymore.  

When rhubarb appears in the grocery store, I’m certain I’m the first purchaser of the year. I’m know the cashier can smell the rhubarb desperation on me. It unnecessarily pathetic. Next year, I’m growing my own rhubarb, in my rhubarb-only garden. 

Rhubarb and raspberry crumble

Serves four to six, slightly adapted from Gill Meller

Oat crumble

• 3 1/2 ounces plain flour

• Pinch of sea salt

• 3 1/2 ounces unsalted butter, cubed and chilled

• 2 1/2 ounces brown sugar

• 2 1/2 ounces old fashioned oats

Filling

• 1 pound rhubarb stalks, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces

• 7 ounces raspberries

• 3 1/2 ounces granulated sugar

• 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch

• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Preparation

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Combine the crumble ingredients in a large bowl and rub them thoroughly together until you have formed clumps and lumps.

Line a baking tray with a piece of baking parchment. Place the mixture onto the tray and distribute evenly. Set aside.

Place the rhubarb in a 10-inch baking dish, add the raspberries, sugar and vanilla. Mix the cornstarch with a couple of tablespoons of water, mix and then add to the fruit mixture.

Place the dish of fruit in the oven as well as the tray of crumble and bake for 20 minutes, turning the crumble mixture over three-or-four times during baking, until clumped together, biscuity and golden.

Spoon the crumble mixture onto the fruit and continue to cook for a further 10 to15 minutes, or until the rhubarb and raspberries are soft, the juices are bubbling away and the crumble is golden brown.

Brian Medford is a baker, teacher and the owner of The Rusty Cup in Astoria. He has lived in the Northwest for more than 20 years and delights in Southern cooking. Contact him at blmedford@gmail.com.