The view from Ecola State Park

Published 4:00 pm Tuesday, October 1, 2024

The name “ecola” comes from the Chinook word “ekoli,” meaning “whale.”

In January 1806, members of the Lewis and Clark expedition set out from their winter camp at Fort Clatsop after learning that a whale had washed ashore to the southwest near a Tillamook village.

Capt. William Clark, Sacagawea and about a dozen others left in two canoes from Youngs Bay, continued south along the Skipanon River and traveled on land to the expedition’s salt works, near present-day Seaside. From there, they hiked over Tillamook Head through what is now Ecola State Park.

Several of the park’s trails follow in their footsteps, namely the 2.5-mile Clatsop Loop Trail and the route that continues for another 4 miles over the headland.

In all, Ecola State Park extends over 1,023 acres, wrapping around 9 miles of ocean cliffs and coves between Seaside and Cannon Beach. Within its boundaries are 8 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail, a section also designated as part of the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. Ecola itself is also part of Lewis and Clark National Historical Park.

But before those titles, much of this land was privately owned. After Tillamook Head was deemed unsuitable for building a lighthouse, owing to fog and low visibility, portions of it were opened up to buyers. By the early 20th century, several families had built summer homes at Ecola Point.

By 1932, four were willing to take them down. Working with Samuel Boardman, Oregon’s first state parks superintendent, who was also instrumental in developing other coastal parks such as Oswald West and Cape Lookout, the families transferred more than 450 acres to Oregon State Parks. The rest of the park, including several hundred acres of forestland, was acquired by 1978.

Today, Ecola State Park is one of the Oregon Coast’s most visited places, and yet it’s still somewhere to find peace and quiet, to listen to the birds sing and the waves crash.

To get there, exit U.S. Highway 101 on the north side of Cannon Beach. Follow Fifth Street to Ecola State Park Road, which will continue uphill through a Sitka spruce forest until it reaches a parking lot and viewpoint. From here, pay the $5 day-use parking fee and try out a trail.

Crescent Beach Trail

Distance: 2.5 miles out-and-back

This route is on the steeper side but fairly short. It leads from the Ecola Point overlook into a coastal forest with a salal and fern understory. Watch for deer and elk crossing the trail.

The hike’s destination is a secluded pocket beach, framed by two headlands. On the flat sand, wander north to find sea caves and a short waterfall. To the south, walk to Chapman Point, which can sometimes be rounded at low tide.

Indian Beach Trail

Distance: 4.7 miles

This moderate hike between Ecola Point and Indian Beach reopened in 2021 after being routed inland due to a landslide that washed out part of the trail.

Now, rather than follow an oceanside cliff, a new, longer route heads deeper into the forest, with some steep sections. At the end of the trail, take a moment to walk along the beach, which is popular for surfing and home to many tide pools.

Clatsop Loop Trail

Distance: 2.5 miles

From Indian Beach, continue onto this moderately challenging loop and head west or east at the fork. The east side of the trail follows a gravel forest road, while the west side alternates between tall trees and cliffside views.

The two ends meet at Hiker’s Camp, which offers three cabins for Oregon Coast Trail through hikers. Head slightly farther west for a viewpoint looking out to Tillamook Rock Lighthouse.

Tillamook Head Trail

Distance: 10.5 miles out-and-back

In a journal entry from Jan. 8, 1806, Capt. William Clark described a vista from Tillamook Head as “the grandest and most pleasing prospect which my eyes ever surveyed.”

On the remainder of the headland hike, expect switchbacks, elevation gain and ocean views. The full Tillamook Head trail is about 5.25 miles and can be done one-way or as an out-and-back for a total distance of 10.5 miles.

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