An all-weather hike on Tillamook Head

Published 9:00 am Thursday, February 15, 2024

On one of the kinder days of winter, sun peeked out over the clouds at Hiker’s Camp.

In the distance, Tillamook Rock Light sat still on its rock, a mile offshore to my west. The chatter of rocks alternated with the crashing waves many hundreds of feet below. 

This was at a viewpoint on the east end of the Clatsop Loop Trail, a 2.5-mile round trip in the footsteps of the Lewis and Clark expedition. Explorers ventured here in January 1806 on their way from Fort Clatsop to investigate reports of a beached whale to the south.

Today, the loop is a quiet walk through a tall forest, a shorter trail to hike on a winter’s day when the sun finds its way out, or at least when squalls have let up for a few hours.

On one of those recent days, I took a walk by the tide pools at Haystack Rock in Cannon Beach — saw sea stars and hermit crabs — then drove up to Ecola State Park.

I began the Clatsop Loop at the park’s Indian Beach. From there, the trail follows either a gravel forest road on the inland side or a salal-lined path peppered with viewpoints at the ocean’s edge.

To start, I chose the latter, winding between Sitka spruce towers and magnificent views over a sheer cliff.

Brush clearings gave way to lighthouse views — the end of the trail is the closest view from shore. Do bring a pair of binoculars.

For hikers keen on a longer distance, the loop trail connects to a longer route over Tillamook Head, which continues north to The Cove in Seaside. Or take in the views a second time on the way back.

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