A warm butternut squash soup, paired with pumpkin seeds.

I have a complicated relationship with soup. It keeps turning up in my life and I keep pushing it away. It sounds unhealthy, but it’s where I’m at. Soup is too hot, too chunky and just too soupy for me.

I could go the rest of my life without soup, but somehow I’ve managed to surround myself with soup lovers. My mother would order hot soup at a restaurant located on the sun and I recently offended a friend who offered me homemade soup for dinner. I politely declined, and he was aghast.

Soup is comforting. The only time I’ve actively sought out soup was with my friend Karen. We worked together and based on the office environment, we needed comfort. Butternut squash soup was our refuge.

On some days, we’d call ahead to confirm it was available and then race to the restaurant before they ran out. The best part of that soup was hanging out with my friend, but also the soup toppings. Pepitas and sour cream drizzle were the metaphorical cherry on top.

The nostalgia and comfort of butternut squash soup compel me to enjoy it through the fall season. If you see Karen and I speed walking toward a restaurant to get butternut squash soup, just know we need comfort.

Alternatively, if you see me eating any other type of soup in public, just know that I am in danger and am trying to signal you for help. Stay alert.

Butternut squash soup

Ingredients

Toasted pumpkin seeds

• 1/2 cup raw pepitas

• 2 teaspoons maple syrup

• 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

• A big pinch of kosher salt

Soup

• 1/4 cup olive oil

• One large yellow onion, sliced into

1-inch wedges

• One medium (2 pounds) butternut

squash, peeled, halved and seeds

removed, cut into 1-inch cubes

• 3/4 teaspoon plus 1/2 teaspoon kosher

salt

• 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper, plus more

• 1-quart vegetable broth

• 2 tablespoons harissa or hot honey

• 1 teaspoon orange zest

• Kosher salt and freshly ground

black pepper, to finish

• 3/4 cup sour cream, plus more for

drizzle (optional)

Preparation

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Toss seeds with maple syrup, chili flakes and salt. Spread in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 12 to 15 minutes or until some seeds have popped and are starting to brown. Remove from the oven and let cool, breaking apart into bite-sized pieces.

Increase the oven temperature to 425 degrees Fahrenheit. Drizzle the olive oil over the onion and squash pieces in a large bowl. Season with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 3/4 teaspoon black pepper. Toss to coat. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet and spread into a single layer. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes or until vegetables are soft and caramelized, then set aside to cool.

Combine the vegetable stock, harissa and orange zest in a Dutch oven set over medium to high heat. Season with a 1/2 teaspoon of salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bring to a simmer, then add the pumpkin and onions, along with any leftover oil from the pan.

Reduce heat to medium and let simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in sour cream.

Blend in two separate batches in a blender. Transfer to serving bowls. Sprinkle with toasted pumpkin seeds and drizzle with thinned-out sour cream if desired.

Brian Medford is a baker, teacher and the owner of The Rusty Cup in Astoria. He has lived in the Northwest for more than 20 years and delights in Southern cooking. Contact him at blmedford@gmail.com.