The watery Graveyard of the Pacific holds the stories of shipwrecks over centuries. Since 1800, more than 2,000 vessels — including about 200 larger ships — have met their fate near the treacherous waters where the Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean.

For the maritime archaeologists who study these ships, careful surveying, research and documentation are essential to identifying and preserving them as pieces of history. But unlike many coastal states, Oregon and Washington do not have dedicated underwater archaeologists.

One North Coast group is filling the gap.

Archaeology

The Maritime Archaeological Society, based in Astoria, seeks out shipwrecks and other submerged sites for documentation, artifact conservation and community education in areas of maritime cultural heritage and the science of maritime archaeology.

Shipwrecks are protected by state and federal laws — not just any beachcomber can salvage them. Photographing sites is allowed, but any excavation or collection of pieces requires permission.

The Abandoned Shipwreck Act of 1987 is responsible for many protections now offered to underwater sites, allowing states to claim submerged vessels within their borders. Before this, confusion arose over who could claim found shipwrecks, often resulting in conflicts between sites’ commercial value and interests in historic preservation.

After the 1987 law, federal ownership was established for wrecks located within 3 miles of the United States coastline and internal waters, which was then transferred to states. With this process in place, if a diver or beachcomber discovered a new shipwreck off the Oregon Coast, it would belong to Oregon.

One exception to this framework is due to the Sunken Military Craft Act of 2004. This act preserves the sovereign status of sunken U.S. military vessels and aircraft, regardless of how much time has passed. With thousands of such vessels around the world, this act serves to preserve history.

However, the U.S. Navy does not single-handedly care for each site — there are reportedly more than 17,000 ships and aircraft wrecks around the world. Instead, the Naval History and Heritage Command, located at the historic Washington Navy Yard, manages these resources through its Underwater Archaeology Branch.

It is often in the Navy’s best interest to delegate artifact preservation. For example, although two carronades recovered from the 1846 wreck of the U.S.S. Shark belong to the Navy, they are now under the care of the Columbia River Maritime Museum. When requested, the museum sends a report to the Navy detailing the condition of the carronades and plans for future care.

Research

Careful and specific questions are essential when applying for state permits to research shipwreck sites. “Without research questions,” Chris Dewey, Maritime Archaeological Society founder, said, “you’re not really doing underwater archaeology.”

Maritime archaeologists interested in a potential excavation put forth a permit request with a research design, summarizing details along with a plan to answer proposed research questions. Without these questions, the permit is likely to be denied.

Once permission is granted for formal excavation, there is only a small window of time to get to work, as diving along the Oregon Coast is highly dependent on the weather and tides. The Maritime Archaeological Society’s dive season runs from about May to early September, during which time the group takes great care to ensure safe diving.

A minimum of two surveyors dive into the water, aided by a third safety diver who is ready to go at a moment’s notice in case of emergency. In addition, underwater technologies like remotely operated vehicles help along exploratory missions.

These underwater robots are tethered to a boat by a series of cables, allowing an operator to remotely explore a shipwreck site. Because the vehicles can be underwater longer than human divers can, they are commonly used to broadly explore before the Maritime Archaeological Society sends in divers for a more targeted mission.

Beeswax

In June of 2022, timbers believed to belong to the Santo Cristo de Burgos, a 17th-century Manila galleon ship that marked one of the first European arrivals to the Oregon Coast, were recovered near Manzanita.

The ship gained its nickname, the Beeswax, in the 19th century from vast quantities of beeswax that were stored onboard the ship as cargo, collected and traded by both Indigenous people and settlers.

The timbers had been resting in a highly-exposed environment. If something wasn’t done, they would be in danger of washing away — and a window into Oregon’s history could be lost.

The Beeswax recovery mission followed efforts by Maritime Archaeological Society leaders Chris Dewey and Scott Williams, who worked with several state agencies to secure excavation permits.

Most materials in waters 60 feet deep or less are pushed up to the surface. Water at this depth is usually within a mile off the coast, a compelling indicator that whatever underwater wreck is the source of these materials can’t be too far away.

Artifacts believed to be from the Santo Cristo de Burgos continue to wash ashore along the North Coast. The frequency with which the pieces are found has indicated to underwater archaeologists that there must still be some part of the wreck offshore.

Diving

For the Maritime Archaeological Society, investigations like these begin with a site visit, confirming items of historical interest. Next comes a reconnaissance survey, a more detailed look.

During this phase, volunteers measure the site, take photos and use location markers to report information to the Oregon State Historic Preservation Office, which oversees archaeology in the state.

The state archaeologist then reviews the report and keeps it on file. Researchers may later return to the site and conduct a detailed survey that includes comprehensive drawings and measurements — information that may shed light on the purpose and use of a vessel and may be important to discovering bygone maritime culture.

‘Group effort’

Preservation efforts then pick up in museums, libraries and archives — and sometimes on the pages of books.

In 2020, Maritime Archaeological Society volunteers compiled analysis and research into a volume that tells the stories of landmark shipwrecks throughout Northwest history, stretching back to the Santo Cristo de Burgos.

“Shipwrecks of the Pacific Northwest: Tragedies and Legacies of a Perilous Coast,” was edited by Jennifer Kozik, one of the society’s founding board members.

It goes on to guide readers through the full life cycle of a series of ships fated to have their final resting place along 150 miles of rugged Northwest coastline, from Willapa Bay to Tillamook Bay.

Included are the U.S.S. Shark, Desdemona, Great Republic, Emily Reed, Glenesslin, Iowa, Trinidad and the Mauna Ala, a freighter carrying 60,000 Christmas trees that had been heading for Pearl Harbor just before Dec. 7, 1941, when U.S. involvement in World War II began.

Archaeologists seek to understand human history through the lens of tangible physical remains. The book explores violent storms, survival, loss, what can still be found of the shipwrecks today and hints at how much more might still be out there, waiting to be discovered.

Preserving the North Coast’s treasured historic landscape takes a village. Scott Williams, director of the Maritime Archaeological Society, encourages curious beachcombers to report findings to Oregon State Parks and the Oregon State Historic Preservation Office.

“That’s how we learn about these things,” Williams said. “It really is a group effort.”

Maritime Archaeological Society

PO Box 332, Astoria

“Shipwrecks of the Pacific Northwest: Tragedies and Legacies of a Perilous Coast” is available online and at local bookstores

www.maritimearchaeological.org