Paddling to a lesser-seen shore

Published 12:15 am Monday, March 20, 2023

A natural draw emanates from the rivers and bays of the North Coast. Along the shoreline, joy can be found in watching small waves lap against rocky banks as tides rise and fall and as ships cruise through the ports.

Setting out on the water and exploring small islands, located along the Columbia River and within Willapa Bay, elevates the senses. Many of these islands are seldom visited, so it’s likely travelers will have the space all to themselves. To discover these hidden landscapes and learn more about their histories, grab a paddle.

These four islands are accessible only by small boat, an opportunity to experience a calm and unique perspective by kayak, canoe or other water vessel. Possibilities of adventure await, but remember to always respect the land and the water. Watch the tides and currents, check weather conditions and stay on course.

Rice Island

For a simple afternoon getaway where sandy shores await, look to Rice Island, located within the Columbia River Estuary just south of Grays Bay. Created in 1962, this fully human-made, 250-acre islet is composed of leftover deposits dredged from the river during construction of a shipping channel that now accommodates large, fully-loaded vessels.

Quiet and uninhabited, the sandy landscape of Rice Island at one point became an ideal breeding ground for Caspian terns. Populations of the nesting shorebirds, feasting mostly on young salmon, grew rapidly during the 1980s.

Because the late 1990s and early 2000s saw these birds relocated to East Sand Island, the sandy beaches of Rice Island now make for a relaxing stop. Enjoy a sunny picnic or a contemplative stroll on the shore. Watch freighters coast along or rest before continuing on to the next destination.

Miller Sands

A seldom-accessed historic site, Miller Sands offers the chance to encounter ruins left behind by the Columbia River salmon industry. Up until the mid-20th century, this island was considered an optimal location for seining, a fishing method that used floats and weights strung along long nets — called seines.

When drawn together from each side, seines enclosed large amounts of fish. Long used by Indigenous people of the Northwest, this technique was adopted and later modified by the Hume brothers, who employed horses to pull the seines.

Robert, William and George Hume began salmon canning in the Northwest in the 1860s. Their achievements led them to become owners of a handful of canneries along the Columbia River.

Because of the success of horse seining from Miller Sands, Hume built a fish receiving station in 1890, aptly named Hume’s Station, just north of the island. The site later became the Altoona Cannery. As the salmon population rapidly declined, the Oregon Legislature outlawed horse seining in 1948.

Today, what remains are the ghost pilings and basalt pillars of a once-thriving fish receiving station and cannery. Paddle farther along and you may also see remains from the Klevenhusen cold storage plant, which burned in 1932, leaving behind its pilings, old boiler and engine. Upriver, find Pillar Rock, a coastal monolith — and its namesake cannery, which remains intact.

Tenasillahe Island

Pack a pair of binoculars and a camera for a visit to Tenasillahe Island. A destination for wildlife and birdwatching enthusiasts, the island is home to dozens of species.

With a name derived from the Chinook “tenas,” meaning “small,” and “illahe,” meaning “land,” this 1700-acre island was once used as a seasonal fishing locale by members of the Chinook tribe. At the turn of the 20th century, Tenasillahe Island was acquired by Portland business partners who dredged then diked the shoreline, dramatically transforming the landscape that was once a marshy shore.

Brown went on to establish Brownsmead, while Jones developed the island into a dairy farm complete with three barns, ten bunkhouses and even a cheese factory. It was later converted into a beef cattle ranch, which operated until 1961.

Since the early 1970s, Tenasillahe has served as a portion of the 6,000-acre Julia Butler Hansen Refuge for the Columbian White-Tailed Deer, and now functions as a wildlife habitat for the once nearly extinct species. While much of the refuge is accessible by land, this portion is only accessible by boat. Today, visitors can explore the perimeter of the island by walking a leisurely 6.5-mile loop trail.

Paddling tip

Start at Skamokawa and cruise down the Columbia River current during ebb tide. Camp at Vista Park to allow one day for visiting Miller Sands and Rice Island. The following day, set out to Tenasillahe Island.

Long Island

Ever wonder what the Columbia-Pacific region looked like centuries ago? A short 10-minute paddle from the mainland of Willapa National Wildlife Refuge transports visitors through time to Long Island — a refuge extension accessible only by boat.

Embark to this piece of the refuge during high tide to avoid getting stuck in the mud flats upon arrival. Long Island is a coastal forest, teeming with life and perfect for hiking.

While there, cook up some freshly harvested clams and watch the sunset from the sandy shore.

Gaze up in wonder along the Don Bonker Cedar Grove Trail, named for a former Washington congressman who helped to pass land protection bills across the region, including for the island’s majestic cedar groves.

This moderately-difficult 6-mile loop takes hikers through hundreds of acres of old-growth coastal rainforest, with the rare chance to see Western red cedar trees that are thousands of years old, alongside fir, hemlock, alder and others.

Bring a compass to navigate these twisting trails. On a first-come, first-served basis, the island also provides five campgrounds with a total of 20 campsites, each complete with picnic tables and fire pits.

Camping tip

Since there is no potable water on the island, plan accordingly for the length of your stay and remember to pack out what you bring in. Leave the refuge untouched for its next explorer.

Marketplace