Stephanie’s Cabin A friendly, comforting and satisfying choice for breakfast, lunch or dinner

Published 4:00 am Thursday, October 30, 2014

Growing up on the coast, my folks and I used to eat semi-regularly at a place a lot of locals will remember as The Dutch Cup. Some may even remember the days that came before that, when the restaurant was called Sambo’s. In 2000, the restaurant became Stephanie’s Cabin, helmed by the same family that owned another local mainstay, Andrew and Steve’s.

I think the reason we often dined at The Dutch Cup, and the reason people still frequent diner-style restaurants, remains the same: We all like simple, comforting food, warm, friendly service, and prices that don’t break the bank. This is exactly what you’ll find at Stephanie’s Cabin.

Breakfast (except the waffles) is served all day, which is instantly endearing to me, and the menu of lunch and dinner items is long, including some true diner favorites: club sandwiches, meatloaf, and even liver and onions. The space is clean and warm, although the brown vinyl booths could stand an update. Even still, there is something decidedly comforting about the atmosphere.

On the breakfast food front, eggs over medium with hash browns were cooked perfectly, with the hash browns crisp, just the way I like them. I didn’t particularly care for the sausage gravy I ordered on the side, as it seemed too thick and had a bit of a flour-y taste. Sausage links and bacon, though, were right on the money.

The kids were charmed by fluffy, buttermilk pancakes, which arrived in the shape of Mickey Mouse. I was charmed by them as well, less for the shape and more for the flavor and texture, which was buttery and light.

I did not care for the clam chowder, as it seemed way too thick for my liking; my spoon could practically stand up on its own. I have worked in restaurants in which soups and chowder sat in counter-top warmers during the day, and by the day’s end, they had often thickened. I was visiting the restaurant late in the day, but of course I cannot say whatsoever that the case was the same here, but it’s my guess. Flavor-wise, the chowder was just okay, nothing too noteworthy, and the clams seemed few and far between.

I was not expecting anything spectacular in a green side-salad, but I was pleasantly surprised to see a bowl of spring greens and a very herbaceous vinaigrette dressing.

By far the most delicious and most surprising dish of the day was a Greek-style gyro. The owners have Greek heritage, our server told us, and the very authentic-tasting gyro was certainly proof, with grilled strips of beef on a thick pita with tzaziki, feta cheese, red onions, spinach and tomato. I cannot recall tasting a better gyro anywhere locally, and I will most certainly return in the future for another round. The gyro comes with your choice of a side dish (salad, soup or fries), but I think something more fitting with the Greek flavors would be more appropriate, even a special side salad with a Greek dressing.

A halibut sandwich was also better than average, with a thick, battered-and-fried slab of halibut atop a ciabatta bun with tartar sauce, lettuce and tomato. While I enjoyed the sandwich, I think the flavor profile could be enhanced somehow: Maybe a kind of slaw instead of lettuce; avocado, perhaps; or some other sort of sauce besides tartar? Just a thought. The French fries that accompanied the sandwich were tasty, though, crisp on the outside but soft on the inside.

Overall, I found the food well worth the reasonable prices. Gourmet and fancy? No. White tablecloths? No. But friendly, comforting and satisfying? Absolutely.

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