Out & about

It looms south of Seaside, a tall, tree-covered promontory overlooking the ocean.

The headland makes a great background for pictures on the beach. The wind and waves at its base create perfect conditions for water sports.

Im talking, of course, about Tillamook Head. I hiked up the iconic hill last weekend. Though you can start south in Ecola State Park and work your way north, I started at the Tillamook Head Trailhead in Seaside and made my way south. (To find the trailhead, turn west on Avenue U, then south on Edgewood Street, and follow it to the end.)

The trailhead sits opposite a gated development. You head up and switchback. Ecola Point is 7 miles south; Hikers Camp is about 4 miles.

The first leg is the steepest on this moderate hike. The trail veers right and levels briefly, passing a giant tree and a break in the trees. There are about 16 or so switchbacks as you work your way up, passing through Sitka spruce, alder, ferns and salmonberry vines. Keep going.

Soon, trail splits in a short loop; climbing right leads to the summit of the head and a glimpse of the drop below. The main trail continues, leveling, dropping and rising through mossy woods. Sunlight brightens the trail in patches. The green underbrush is vibrant with summer life.

At one point, a squirrel scurried out from the underbrush onto the trail and jumped up on a nearby stump. It froze. I froze. After a moment of slyly regarding each other, I took one step closer, and in a blink, Mr. Squirrel was gone.

Lewis and Clark forged their way over Tillamook Head in January 1806, and at times on the trail, following their footsteps feels quite literal. You walk between two sides of a trail that are intent on converging, leaves and branches brushing your shoulders as you duck. You climb over or crawl beneath fallen logs.

You navigate around mud pits some of which resemble puddles. Mud squelches and squeals as you test out a step here, try to find sure footing there. Some boards create safe passageway. I can say for certain that my new REI hiking boots no longer have that fresh-from-the-box look.

Then you come upon a view point. The soft murmur of the waves, which acted as background noise during the hike, is no longer muffled by the trees. It rises to a dull roar. Water crashes against rock far below. Peeking over the edge of the sheer cliff, you realize just how far youve climbed. The horizon is almost at eye-level. The ocean stretches impossibly far. Clark wasnt exaggerating when he described it as boundless Ocean. The sunlight on the water and cool breeze invigorate you to keep going.