Something about the coast that I find appealing is our sense of style and how it relates to dining out experiences. Where else could a person feel welcome at an exquisite restaurant in shorts and sandy flip flops? Diners of any ilk seemed to be visiting The Wayfarer Restaurant & Lounge in Cannon Beach on my recent evening there, and I loved seeing kids fresh off the beach, romantic couples and tables of old friends all enjoying themselves. The Wayfarer, under the culinary direction of executive chef Josh Archibald, is a cut above the rest, but theres no pretense here: just fantastic food and a warm atmosphere.

On our servers suggestion, we began with a first appetizer of bleu cheese chips with garlic aioli, and after eating them, I can say in all honesty that Im not sure I could ever eat chips another way. Russet potatoes were sliced thin but still meaty and fried to a texture between chewy and crisp, topped with melted bleu cheese. The garlic aioli dipping sauce was the perfect addition, and the flavors and textures of the dish were in perfect balance.

I sampled next calamari, breaded with seasoned flour and fried crispy, served with fresh lemon and a citrus-herb aioli. Fried to perfection and not rubbery, as calamari can often be, the dish was a pleasing start but not nearly as toothsome as the bleu cheese chips.

I was pleased with the house salad, a bed of crisp organic greens with sunflower seeds, cucumbers, tomatoes, carrots and red onions; the flavors were bright and the ingredients seemed extremely fresh. The salad, though, was eclipsed by the classic Northwest chowder, which has joined the ranks of my top chowders on the coast list. Creamy, simple, delicate and savory, the chowder was chock full of clams and accentuated by bacon, potatoes and sautéed vegetables. My favorite texture for chowder lands somewhere between creamy and thick; I like chowders that can coat the back of a spoon, but not so thick the spoon could stand up on its own. Many local restaurants serve this coastal favorite, and many try to put their own spin on it, adding unusual ingredients to make their chowder stand apart. The version offered at The Wayfarer is proof that a chowder neednt be unusual or overly sophisticated to be completely satisfying, and I appreciate the simple nuance of what I consider the classic chowder ingredients: cream, clams, bacon and potatoes.

I was unable to pass up an entrée of regionally foraged wild mushrooms atop handmade ravioli, filled with a variety of cheeses and tossed with mascarpone cream sauce after I saw a plate of it delivered to a nearby table. The ravioli was finished in the oven with a crumb topping and served with crusty garlic bread, and to add interest, I requested prawns as an additional ingredient. The mellow meatiness of the mushrooms blends seamlessly with the cheese and mascarpone, and the prawns lent a bright note that I think enhanced the dish.

A 7.5-ounce filet mignon followed the ravioli, with what is known as a glace de viande, a rich, flavorful meat glaze. I specified that I wished the filet mignon to be cooked to medium doneness, but it was closer to medium rare. The texture was so tender, though, that I was willing to overlook it. I found the glace de viande a bit bland, and I wanted the overall flavor of the steak to be punched up somehow, even with the simple addition of salt, pepper or garlic. The steak was accompanied by a golden potato-leek cake rather than the usual choices of mashed or baked potato, which was a tasty and unusual departure, sort of a soft potato pancake. I always appreciate it when sides are prepared with as much care and thought as the featured entrée, and glazed carrots, broccolini and corn on the cob were a tasty and satisfying addition to the meal.

Never one to turn down dessert, I dove into a dish of peach cobbler with brown sugar ice cream and raspberry sauce, which was every bit as delicious as it sounds.

During my meal I marveled at the magnificent view of Haystack Rock, which is so close to the restaurant and so visible that its like having another guest at your table. What a wonderful restaurant, and what a coastal treasure.