As a food enthusiast, I find it fascinating that often our desire for certain food changes with our mood. Some days we might be in the mood for Italian, or we might feel like Chinese. Similarly, sometimes I am in the mood for the Rogue Ales Public House and am heartened by the spirit it evokes: delicious, pub-style food; a fun, rustic atmosphere; a spectacular view; and of course, good beer.

The Rogue opened in July 2007 on Pier 39 in Astoria, the former home of the Bumble Bee Tuna cannery. I appreciate restaurants such as this one that make their home in old, historic places, especially when they pay homage to the original locale; driving out onto the pier always makes me nervous, but its part of the charm. The Rogues story actually begins in the late 1980s with a group of friends who opened a small pub and made beer in the basement, and it has grown to include several brew pubs in Oregon, as well as an impressive line of artisan-quality beers that are distributed widely.

On a recent evening when I visited the Rogue, I was in the mood for red meat. For an appetizer, we selected American Kobe beef sliders with Rogue Creamery bleu cheese. I just love sliders, dont you? Teeny-tiny, tasty and packed full of flavor, the beef itself was tender and juicy, and the bleu cheese was an ideal accompaniment. I want to make a quick note about Kobe beef, which is a Japanese delicacy and comes from cows of superior breeding, whose bovine ancestors can be traced back generations. In the United States, Kobe beef more commonly comes from the Wagyu bloodline, in the style of Kobe. I am not implying that the Rogue is using one version or another, as their beef is delicious regardless, but I thought it interesting food for thought.

A salad of fresh spring greens, bleu cheese, dried cranberries, toasted hazelnuts and balsamic vinaigrette was next, and I found it pleasing, especially the vinaigrette, which had a creamy, spicy, acidic punch. The combination of fruit, cheese and nuts in house salads seems quite commonplace these days in restaurants in general, and its a nice change from a typical green salad.

Next I ordered two soups: the clam chowder and Harrys beer cheese soup. The clam chowder was just average for me: a pleasing, creamy consistency but lacking any real, discernible flavors apart from the clams themselves. The beer cheese soup, made by Harrys Fresh Foods, was more my style and prepared with Rogues Dead Guy Ale and sharp cheddar, Andouille sausage, garlic and onions and served with Rogue Hazelnut Ale bread. I thought the Andouille sausage a delightful addition to the soup, lending sweetness and spice, and overall it was rich and robust. I wonder what it might be like if they added a touch of their Rogue Creamery bleu cheese, just to make it extra tangy. Just a curious whim.

As a first entrée I selected the Brutal Reuben sandwich, topped with corned beef simmered in Brutal Bitter beer, swiss cheese, sauerkraut with Shakespeares Stout, and Thousand Island dressing on marbled rye. It was nothing short of sensational, particularly the sauerkraut: tender, crisp and perfectly spiced. The Rogue sells all of its ales, T-shirts, and lots of other merchandise, and I wonder if it has considered canning its sauerkraut and selling it the Rogue would certainly have my support.

Seasoned Mahi Mahi fish tacos were next on the culinary agenda, with lettuce, tomato, cheddar cheese and corn tortillas. The fish was tender but a bit bland for my liking; it could have used some additional seasoning, perhaps cumin or red pepper. With the addition of all the various toppings and a dash of lime, though, the tacos were above average.

A house-made brownie with chocolate sauce and whipped cream rounded out the evenings eatings nicely.

During our meal, the service was particularly exemplary. Our server was remarkably quick, friendly and accommodating, especially given the fact that it looked as though shed recently been slammed with many new tables at once. She handled it expertly, and as a former server myself, I can appreciate the composure required in serving so many tables.

I highly recommend the Rogue, for whenever youre in the mood for great food and great beer.