<p>New York steak.</p>

On the evening I visited Jimella and Nancis Seafood Market & Café in Ocean Park, Wash., and watched Nanci gracefully pouring wine and Jimella jovially greeting guests like they were old friends, I pondered briefly what it might be like to be famous. Nanci Main and Jimella Lucas, longtime owners of the nationally renowned Ark Restaurant, are nothing short of famous. Peninsula legends, to be sure, their names have become synonymous with outstanding, hand-crafted, creative cuisine. In fact, if you find yourself on the Long Beach Peninsula, all you really have to say is Nanci or Jimella and people instantly know to whom youre referring. Theyre like the culinary versions of Cher or Madonna.

The small restaurant, maybe only 10 tables or so, is instantly endearing. Brightly colored tablecloths, twinkling, white lights, and a warm spirit pervade the cozy space, and the sound of diners laughing and mmm-ing is extraordinarily welcoming.

On this particular evening we were seated right away, and our server was truly fantastic, extraordinarily knowledgeable about the menu and even offered suggestions for wine pairings for each dish. We began our enjoyable evening with Julies Caesar salad with traditional hearts of romaine, Caesar dressing, toasted croutons and lovely shavings of Pecorino Romano cheese. I find that Caesar dressing, by and large, is becoming thicker and more similar in taste and consistency to ranch dressing, so I was remarkably pleased that the dressing featured here is delicate and thin, with a pleasing tang of vinegar and citrus, the perfect accompaniment for the assertive Pecorino.

Delivered next was the Market clam chowder according to the menu, the same recipe as the one made famous at the Ark Restaurant for two decades and it did not disappoint. A hearty portion of razor clams swam in the pleasantly spiced cream. When I eat out, I am in the habit of playing flavor detective with each dish, tasting thoughtfully and trying to perceive what ingredients have been used. The marriage of flavors in this clam chowder is so seamless that it is impossible to separate one taste from another, and the harmony of it is simple and brilliant simultaneously.

I sampled next the Willapa Bay oyster stew, featuring oysters poached in butter, shallots, cream and sherry. I found it a surprising dish, actually, and I think its important to point out that it is a stew and not a chowder: more brothy than creamy and allowing the flavor of the oysters to take the drivers seat. While I preferred the clam chowder, the oyster stew is still quite good and will please oyster lovers.

For my first entrée, I selected a New York steak topped with bleu cheese butter, served with gratin potatoes and crispy onions. The steak was cooked to a perfect medium doneness: pink in the center, but with a nearly crisp, boldly flavorful exterior. I particularly appreciated having gratin potatoes as opposed to mashed potatoes as is often the case, and the creamy, cheesy flavor married well with the hearty steak.

A second entrée of crab and shrimp macaroni and cheese, with a sharp cheddar sauce and crisp bread crumbs on top, was sinfully delicious comfort food on overdrive. It was so rich and delicious that I couldnt finish it, and the following day, as a leftover, it was almost better.

Although I was painfully full, I couldnt pass up dessert after I saw a Swedish cream panna cotta on a tray. Panna cotta is one of my favorite desserts, and the version served by Jimella and Nanci is topped with a saucy, cranberry and Grand Marnier glaze. The tartness of cranberry and tangy citrus of Grand Marnier melts beautifully into the sweet, dense cream, and I ate it down to the last, lovely spoonful.

On the way out, I spent some time in the adjoining market, where they sell artisanal breads, high-end condiments, a thrilling selection of wine and beer, and other foodie items that are otherwise hard to find.

On the whole, it was one of the most enjoyable evenings out I can recall in a long while, and I am glad to know that the legend of the Ark continues to live on in a cozy, refreshing setting.