As a long-time student of Spanish language and culture, and having spent time abroad in Mexico, Mexican cuisine holds a special place in my heart and on my table. I love really good, authentic Mexican food, and truth be told, often think I could be happy eating little else. So you can imagine how thrilled I am to be reviewing La Cabana De Raya in Astoria, one of the best and most authentic Mexican restaurants on the coast.

If you are a regular reader of my reviews (and if you are, thank you!), you may remember that a few weeks ago I discussed the seeming homogenization of American Chinese food, and I find that often the same can be said about Mexican food. While Mexican food, like Chinese food, varies by each region, what we know in the states as Mexican food is often Tex-Mex food, cuisine from the Border States that is really a fusion of American ingredients and Mexican-inspired dishes. You are familiar with it, Im sure: globs and globs of melted yellow cheese, sizable scoops of sour cream and plates that are inexplicably one million degrees (and seriously, why is that?). In truth, when visiting Mexico you are more likely to find a light crumbling of queso fresco and a drizzle of Mexican crema. Now, I enjoy a burrito as much as the next person (which is also largely an American creation), so I dont mean any disrespect to either version of Mexican cuisine. But I do appreciate authenticity, especially when a restaurant such as this one delivers it so beautifully.

La Cabana De Raya, situated near the Lewis and Clark Bridge and overlooking the Columbia River, is a tiny, family-run restaurant full of character, authenticity and warm spirit.

I started the evenings eatings with an order of nachos, a dish whose history has an interesting tale. The story goes that sometime in the mid 1940s, a few army wives whose husbands were stationed in Fort Duncan were on a shopping trip in Mexico, and stopped at a restaurant just as they were about to close. The man who was closing up for the evening went to the kitchen and managed to make them a dish from what he had left from the day some tortilla triangles and cheese sauce. The women were delighted with the dish and asked the man, Ignacio Nacho Anaya, what it was called, and he said, Nachos especiales (Nachos special). La Cabana De Rayas version is topped with marinated chicken, queso fresco and crema, onion, cilantro, tomatoes and avocados. Unlike the gut-busting nachos more commonly seen these days, these are light, delicate, flavorful and simple.

Next I ordered the ceviche, a dish typically attributed to Peruvian cuisine, and it was exceptional. Traditional ceviche features seafood that marinates in a blend of citrus juices until the protein denatures, meaning its really brined and not cooked. I find La Cabana De Rayas version much more palatable with cooked fish, in this case halibut and crab, with tangy lime, onion, cilantro, tomato and avocado, served on a crispy tostada. I plan to come again sometime at lunch and order several of these.

I was delighted to see torta on the menu, which, forgive the description, is sort of a Mexican hamburger. This is about as authentically Mexican as you can get, and the version served here features your choice of grilled meat with cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, jalapenos and avocados served on a bun. Given the popularity of the sandwiches in buns in America, I am always surprised that tortas are not more readily available. This torta lived up to my expectations, and I ate it with carne asada.

I tried next a variety of tacos and sampled each meat the restaurant offers: Chorizo (Mexican sausage), carne asada (steak), al pastor (seasoned pork), tinga (shredded chicken with tomato, potato, onion, and mild chipotle sauce), and pollo marinado (seasoned, grilled chicken). Each taco was tasty and complex, but my favorites were those with the seasoned pork and the tinga, which is a singularly wonderful flavor. The smokiness of chipotle is mellowed by potato and the chicken is incredibly moist and tender. Each taco was served on homemade corn tortillas. Homemade tortillas really add a flavor element to tacos that is often otherwise missing when prepared with store-bought shells.

Our service throughout the evening was pleasant and quick, and our server didnt miss a beat with my somewhat long and complicated order.

My favorite moment of the warm, sunny evening happened as the sun was just beginning to set, and I noticed that every diner in the place had looked up from their meals to watch the purple-pink horizon reflecting on the water.

It was one of those wonderful moments that remind me how much I love where I live, and I was pleased to experience this moment at La Cabana De Raya, where they clearly love what they do.