What comes to mind when you hear the name McMenamins? I think well-crafted beer and wine, interesting and restored locales, weirdly wonderful artwork, and a great place to visit with friends. Though I enjoy the McMenamins brand and have visited many of the restaurants, the name for me unfortunately also means mediocre food. With that in mind, on a recent visit to the McMenamins Sand Trap Pub in Gearhart, I tried to enter with an open mind and palate, and hoped the restaurant would stand apart.

The Sand Trap is located on the Gearhart Golf Links where two restaurants have existed before, and both unfortunately burned to the ground. Though the McMenamin brothers are known for renovating old, historic sites (to date, 65 brewpubs and hotels), this is one of their few restaurants that has been created from a new structure. The atmosphere here is fabulous; I really love what theyve done with the place.

On this particular visit my dining companion and I arrived amid a torrent of rain on a cold, gray afternoon, and the inviting, wooden lodge-like atmosphere, as well as the roaring fireplace, instantly charmed us. Our server was good-naturedly patient as we perused the whole of the restaurant for the table before finally settling by the fire. We sipped our drinks, which arrived quickly, while watching a coastal squall whip across the golf green, and with the cozy fire and the taste of delicious hard cider, I was instantly put in a very good mood.

I started with an appetizer of fresh-cut tater tots with garlic, Parmesan and parsley with peppercorn ranch. Delicious. Crispy on the outside, soft in the middle and with a flavorful punch. We were off to a great start unfortunately, things started to go downhill shortly thereafter.

The clam chowder that arrived next was not noteworthy. Though I know most coastal restaurants feel obligated to offer the dish, it was executed poorly. The consistency was thick and gelatinous, as if it had been sitting too long and needed thinning with milk or cream. It was rather flavorless apart from potatoes and the clams themselves. After a bite that included a bit of sand, I pushed it aside.

Next up was a flame-broiled burger with bacon and blue cheese. I had been craving a good burger and had high hopes that this would fit the bill. The menu claims the burger is one-third-pound, but it seemed smaller, and I was not asked how I wanted it cooked; it arrived gray and overdone. The patty had no flavor apart from the flame broil. Also disappointing was the temperature, which was lukewarm. There were also no discernible chunks of blue cheese, rather a light smearing of creamy blue cheese dressing. I was hoping for the kind of burger chef Paula Deen calls an elbow licker thick, juicy, and mouth-watering but unfortunately, my elbows stayed dry.

A second entrée of an 8-inch pizza was a bit better. I assumed when ordering that I would have had my carnivorous fill from the burger, so I selected the green with envy pizza, featuring green veggies (cucumber, broccoli and spinach), pesto, mozzarella and feta. The pizza crust was delicious. The overall flavor was a bit bland, though; adding more pesto and feta could have helped. I also thought cooked cucumbers and broccoli a rather odd choice of vegetables. Still, it was not bad, just not great.

Dessert was bread pudding with Hogshead whiskey sauce. Like most of the other dishes, it was just okay not outstanding but not terrible.

With the restaurants fantastic ambience and service, I wanted very much for the food to be excellent and shatter the mediocre opinion I have of most other McMenamins Ive tried. And though the prices for lunch are fair, with most items between $9 and $12, any price for poor food is too high.

The food at the Sand Trap wasnt up to par for me on this visit, but I still plan to return for the atmosphere, drinks and probably the tots.