Seaside’s best bites
Published 4:51 am Thursday, April 12, 2012
- <p>The house cioppino with a peachberry martini sits across from a prime grade dry aged New York steak and Oak Grove Petit Syrah at McKeown's Restaurant on the corner of Broadway and Holladay Drive in Seaside.</p>
Although Seaside is by common estimation a coastal tourist town, there is much to be had beyond the ubiquitous mainstays of fried seafood and chowder, and the state fair fare of corn dogs, elephant ears, ice cream and taffy. Hidden away and in plain sight are praiseworthy culinary achievements on all levels of price and sophistication. Look hard enough (I certainly have) and youll find that theres something for everyone in Seaside.
Oyster Shooters: A great deal of Seaside eateries offer oyster shooters, and I order them wherever theyre on the menu. But when it came time to pick the best, the clear winner is Relief Pitcher Tavern in south Seaside. The small fresh oysters sit atop a horseradish-packed cocktail sauce with a little sweet relish to enhance the texture and make it unique. Seasides widest variety of Tabasco allows you to customize each shooter to your tastes. Order them a dozen at a time; you wont faze the kitchen! But shooters are merely a starter. Stick around for the signature sandwiches tuna Reuben and pastrami cheeseburger.
Beer and Wine: Theres no shortage of specialty beer and wine shops on the coast, but the largest emporium with the biggest selection of both is also the oldest: The Wine Haus, located in the Seaside Outlet Mall. Of course, a vast assortment is useless without a seasoned guide to help you navigate it. Owner Jeff Killday is incredibly well-versed in both beer and wine, holds tastings daily and is skilled in finding the right fit for your tastes. With more than 30 bottles open at any given time, Killday encourages one and all (especially novices) to explore the possibilities.
Happy Hour: While in dive bars, Happy Hour tends to gravitate toward 10-cent wings, all-you-can-eat fries and dollar beers, at fine dining establishments its a great way to sample their scratch-made creations at a fraction of the cost. And since the portions are small to go with the prices, you can sample myriad items from the diverse array of options. McKeowns proved to be most impressive when I reviewed them in January, and their Happy Hour (3 to 6 p.m. daily) follows suit. The prodigious pair of pulled pork sliders drop to $4.59 from $6.99, the barbecue chicken quesadilla $4.29 from $10.59, and you can get a Caesar salad with chicken for just $3.99. McKeowns also offers day-of-the-week specials at the bar, such as Tuesdays $5 cheeseburger and fries. Their superior beer-battered onion rings the best Ive ever had anywhere are not discounted, but well worth the regular menu price!
Pizza: Growing up here on the coast, loving Fultanos and their unique style of pizza (thin, cornmeal-dusted, fermented, yeasty cracker crust with a bold sauce and loads of toppings) is almost inborn. But after much traveling and pizza consumption, I appreciate all varieties.
Therefore its got to be a tie. Fultanos for the aforementioned style, and Pizza Express for its truly authentic, hand-tossed New York style pizza. The two types are about as opposite as you can get, but I love them both equally. Each place offers a lot more than just pizza, but thats another category. Best yet, Fultanos and Pizza Express are across the street from each other! Both deliver.
Mexican Food/Tex-Mex: When it comes to Mexican food, theres the traditional and the Americanized. Both have their place depending on ones mood at any given time. When I want an authentic pork taco on a housemade corn tortilla, I head to The Stand. The guacamole is made to order, the salsa is chunky and the chips are hot. The Stands moist tamales (pork or vegetable) are unparalleled. The mole is smooth, rich and velvety; no grit! Enchiladas and burritos are benchmark, and they offer black beans as well as pinto. Plates are beautifully presented and everything bursts with freshness and flawless execution.
When I want 400-degree combination plates covered in sauce and melted cheese, I go to Mazatlan, the best Tex-Mex in the area. You get the Hola, SeƱor treatment, the mariachi music, the bright walls and the perfect Margarita. The chips and salsa keep coming, and the large glossy menu is filled with pictures of the innumerable dishes on offer. Service is overly friendly, and portions are plenteous. Bring along an antacid.
Best Place To Please Everyone: Sad as it is, many Seaside restaurants do try to please everyone. If youre an authentic ethnic place, you shouldnt feel the need to have chicken strips, burgers and chowder on your menu. That said, Dundees Bar & Grill makes no effort to be anything specific. Its a sports bar with more than 20 flatscreens and a projector. But its got a family section open until 9 p.m.; an adjoining bakery (also open until 9) with a wide variety of doughnuts, cookies, pastries and the lot; a fully-loaded salad bar; and a massive menu with just about everything under the sun. Seafood includes steamer clams, calamari, razor clams, fish and chips and oysters. Sub sandwiches entail Philly cheesesteak, French dip, meatball, chicken Parmesan and oyster grinders, among others. There are 16 different handmade burgers, a full pizza menu, housemade chili and chowder and standard bar appetizers such as nachos, wings, onion rings, fried shrimp, sliders, cheese sticks, etc. Try their signature Texas Egg-rolls, wonton wrappers filled with jalapeno and cream cheese served with sweet jalapeno jelly for dipping. There are 15 beers on tap, as many bottled, a decent wine selection and full bar. Most booths have their own TV and remote, theres pool in the back, an e-juke for music and video poker to be had. Kids menu items are $4.99, and they make their own chicken strips. I cant think of anything missing at Dundees.