Odds and ends
Published 5:02 am Thursday, June 9, 2011
- The new Sweet & Spicy Pepper Sauce from Tabasco.
Often there are leftover bits of articles cut for space. Other times there are seedlings of ideas not fully realized into column length. Do they fit together? Usually they do not, but the writer no less longs to see them in print. The following is a pastiche of seemingly unrelated minutiae cobbled together for the sole purpose of not wasting it.
The microwave-poached egg
In a recent magazine article, I think Bon Appetit, I stumbled upon a handy tip: perfect poached eggs fresh from the microwave. Now I usually have no use for the space-age contraption that, in conjunction with TV dinners, “conveniently” helped ruin family meals for 30 or so years throughout North America. But I also don’t like futzing with poached eggs the traditional way.
The microwave method is indeed easy, foolproof and fast. Just take a coffee cup, fill halfway with cold water, crack the egg and gently release its contents into the water. Cover with a saucer or small plate, place in microwave, cook on high for about a minute and a half.
Now the confined space of a coffee cup does not allow the egg white to flail about wildly and separate from itself. It reforms around a slightly runny yolk in a more natural shape, and stays firm enough to be gently drained and moved to your plate.
Poached eggs are a wonderful way to finish many dishes, from soups to salads to just about anything. Now there’s no excuse not to.
“The Lumburger”
I spend a good deal of time listening to old time radio. The serialized mysteries, comedies and variety shows work a different muscle of the imagination, and I find them to be fabulous companions to long road trips. Their newfound availability on radio archive sites in mp3 form has made it all the easier to carry them in one’s pocket.
Though “Superman,” “The Jack Benny Show,” “The Shadow” and “Blondie” are regular favorites of mine, my first choice will always be “Lum and Abner,” a comedy about Arkansas hillbillies who own a general store and get involved in local mischief on a four-times-a-week basis.
Dec. 18, 1946’s episode, “Lum Remembers How to Make Lumburgers,” nearly concludes the Duncan Hines storyline. Before he lent his name to cake mix, Duncan Hines was an early pioneer of restaurant criticism, traveling the country writing reviews of local restaurants for magazines, and eventually, books. Hines had visited The Jot Em Down Store’s restaurant, and Lum, having mistaken a hungry hobo for the expected Hines, had virtually nothing left to serve him upon his eventual arrival. He threw something together, then promptly hit his head, forgetting how the “Lumburger,” now a national sensation, was constructed. Facing a line of customers demanding the popular new burger, he hits his head again and recalls the recipe.
Not having enough ground beef for a whole hamburger, he extended it with a filling of fig preserves, then spread peanut butter on the bun. This immediately sounded good to me, so I made one. If you can’t find fig jam at the store, you can always make your own. The thicker the better, anyway. Though at first it may sound nasty, the Lumburger is quite delicious. The sweetness of the figs and peanut butter work well against grilled ground beef well seasoned with salt and pepper. I found a slice of cheddar, not quite melted, and some homemade mayonnaise rounded it out well.
Restaurant movies
I recently became engaged in an argument about restaurants in cinema. Someone asked me if the (terrible) movie “Waiting” (2005) was an accurate portrayal. “No no no!” was my reply. But as many view film solely as escapism, perhaps that doesn’t matter.
I did recommend three others I do not consider garbage. In no specific order, here are three great movies that take place in restaurants.
“The Cook, the Thief, His Wife and Her Lover” (1989). I don’t believe this giant warehouse of a kitchen really ever existed, but it’s a close portrayal of the French brigade system at work. The ending must be seen to be believed.
“Big Night” (1996). No other movie quite gets chef pride like “Big Night.” Tony Shaloub’s Primo is a realistic version of “the Soup Nazi.” He suffers for his food, but doesn’t understand that suffering moronic customers who want a side of spaghetti with their risotto is part of the deal, too.
“Ratatouille” (2007). With Thomas Keller (of The French Laundry and Per Se, considered a couple of the best restaurants in the country) as a consultant, it’s obvious that Pixar wanted to get it right. And while the polished computer shine of everything was a little too perfect to be believed, the little rat’s passion for food is evident in every scene.
New Tabasco
On a recent visit to the Relief Pitcher in south Seaside, I was introduced to a new variety of Tabasco by the bartender. She recommended the new “Sweet and Spicy Pepper Sauce” with my order of oyster shooters. The thick new blend is unlike the rest of the vinegary family of pepper sauce, more closely resembling Thai sweet chili sauce.
I’ve never been a big fan of regular Tabasco, so this departure is fine with me. It’s weak on heat, so you might want to come up with a mixture like I did: two parts Sweet and Spicy, one part Habanero blend.
The Relief Pitcher is a great place for experimentation because they carry all varieties, and their superior shooters are the perfect foil.