A couple of sure bets in Seaside

Published 4:02 am Thursday, January 27, 2011

For this special Seaside edition of Coast Weekend, I decided to split the column into two mini reviews, one of Tokyo Teriyaki II, the “sequel” to Astoria’s flagship location, and the other of a new restaurant, Tsunami Sandwich Company, of which the buzz is as big as the sandwiches.

I’ve always been a fan of Tokyo Teriyaki, not as much for the titular fare, but for the fresh sashimi and sushi rolls offered in myriad variations. I appreciate a teriyaki bowl every now and again, and Tokyo does it right, but I usually find it difficult to favor it over the fish. Luckily, they offer several roll combo specials, where for around $12 you get a sushi roll and a teriyaki dish. The rice is always perfectly cooked, and the steamed vegetables, usually a medley containing broccoli, cabbage and carrots, is done likewise. Miso soup is simple and inexpensive at $1.50 – plenty of tofu and seaweed in the flavorful broth. A highlight on the menu is their housemade kimchi, a traditional Korean fermented Napa cabbage. If you’ve never tried kimchi, think spicy, chunky sauerkraut. The fermentation gives the cabbage a fizzy, almost carbonated effervescence. Tokyo Teriyaki II’s recipe is spicy enough to be bold, yet mild enough that everyone can enjoy it. A side is $4, and our table of three finished two of them.

I could absolutely live on kimchi and steamed rice … but of course I’d be missing out on the fish. I usually hover around the tuna, yellowtail and salmon rolls and pieces, but there are some more interesting items worth mentioning. I’ve always liked the Unagi (eel and avocado) rolls. There’s a sweetness to the accompanying sauce, not unlike molasses. The spider crab roll ($8.50) contains a crispy deep fried soft shell crab, avocado and smelt roe a textural and temperature contrast that works well. The unorthodox Philadelphia roll ($6.50) contains salmon, avocado and cream cheese. It’s certainly not for everyone, but worthy of sharing just for the experience.

Tokyo Teriyaki II’s menu has a little of everything, so picky eaters will likely be covered. Fried rice dishes, yakisoba noodles and tempura are only a few of the specialties done well. Chinese dishes such as broccoli beef and General Tsao’s chicken are welcome additions, as are the egg rolls and potstickers favored by many. I visit for the raw fish, but there’s so much more worth returning for.

On the Broadway strip not far from the ocean, amid pizza, corn dogs, elephant ears and ice cream, sits a gem of a sandwich shop. Tsunami Sandwich Company crafts big sandwiches in the New York deli style, while also carrying local specialties such as Tillamook ice creams and cheeses, Skipanon fish and the handmade HOTLIPS Soda out of Portland.

My first run-in with Tsunami was sampling the massive unfinished half of their signature monster sandwich, MegaTsunami Pastrami, that a friend brought me. At $15.25, it’s the most expensive item on the menu, but isn’t really meant to be taken down singlehandedly. The thick-cut marble rye bread surrounds a pound of Thumann’s brand hot, thin-sliced pastrami, plenty of Swiss cheese and a bold horseradish mustard. It’s difficult for even two people to finish this sandwich, but a lot of fun to attempt. I decided to visit the restaurant myself and see what else was in store.

A slew of sandwich offerings, both hot and cold, are available at Tsunami, making it somewhat of an endurance in completion to try them all. Between my regular review schedule and everything else, I figure it will take about a year to knock out all 15 sandwiches and five sausages – and that’s with weekly visits. Towering sandwiches, all of perfect ingredient combination, are given local names, and aim to develop a loyal following.

I love turkey sandwiches, and the Lighthouse ($7.75) was right up my alley. Warm turkey, provolone, red onions, tomato and mayo on rustic white bread, griddled to perfection, has made a fan out of me. Also a sandwich I’ll return for is The Columbia Bar ($8.25) featuring medium-rare roast beef, bleu and cheddar cheeses and horseradish.

A soup du jour of broccoli cheddar ($3.25) also benchmark, perfect for the rainy night I enjoyed it. Soup instead of chips is a $2 upcharge, but certainly worthy of it.

If you’re in the mood, the Tsunami dog ($7.75) transcends any “hot dog” expectations. A quarter-pound beef dog is consummated with the fabulous pastrami, sauerkraut and Swiss cheese. Ketchup really isn’t welcome on this dog. You can also get a local microbrew, a root beer float, or try one of the organic HOTLIPS Sodas. The boysenberry is like fresh fruit off the vine because that’s how it’s harvested. No artificial anything.

I’d much rather pay the higher tariff ($2.75) when I know how the product is made. For a great deli sandwich experience, it’s Tsunami Sandwich Company on Broadway in Seaside.

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