Back in August, when I penned the article on Geno’s Pizza and Burgers, I was already working on a coinciding review of Bluto’s Pizza in Chinook. The common ground both share is their success in offering up a memorable alternative to pizza. As I mentioned in the Geno’s piece, most pizza parlors offer up a lot of “supplemental menu filler” such as subs, pasta and salads that cleverly (or not) utilize already-present pizza toppings to alternate ends.

And like Geno’s, Bluto’s is guilty of these same crimes. But while Geno’s saving grace is good-sized and great-tasting burgers, Bluto’s offers what they deem “the most authentic Philly steak [sandwiches] available outside [Philadelphia].” While I didn’t take the opportunity to eat any “cheesesteaks” while in Philadelphia (only slightly regrettable), I have done the research, have sat though several Travel Channel and Food Network round-up shows that have reported ad nauseum on the subject, and can safely say that the ones Bluto’s serves are at least more authentic than the numerous Philly-style steak sandwiches this area has to offer.

Does that make them good? Tough question. The classic cheesesteak is kind of bad to begin with, the Cheez Whiz a deciding factor, the chopped “steak” another. But to be honest, most of the local cheese-steaks I’ve eaten are gussied-up and therefore more expensive than the sandwich should cost. And on top of that, beef, bell peppers, onions and cheese is just not a flavor combination I’m very fond of, no matter how high-end the ingredients. And while I outlawed the ordering of cheesesteaks by my dining guests many months ago, I looked the other way just this one time, because of the menu’s claim and all.

This time, I enjoyed the experience. I like the authentic far better than the “classier” alternatives. First of all, Bluto’s imports the Amoroso rolls that all of the Philly vendors use. Apparently, the Philly-baked bread is second only to the beef in importance to the sandwich. The 12-inch soft, chewy roll is just right for the tender, thinly-sliced top sirloin within. And while a Bluto’s cheesesteak ($6.95) is a long sandwich, it’s not as filling as you’d think – it can be finished in one sitting. I’d say in the end it’s less substantial than a Subway footlong, but hey, you can get one of those almost anywhere.

Bluto’s use of white American cheese is within the boundary of acceptable cheap cheeses (though this is of some debate in Philadelphia). The only complaint I had about these sandwiches was the vegetables. The diced pieces of onion and green pepper were translucent and cooked, but had no browning or oil, as if they were frozen and then microwaved – certainly no evidence that they were sauteed or grilled. And the menu’s topping list offers mushrooms both fresh and canned, for some reason. And while we made sure to specify fresh mushrooms on the pizza, the “mushroom steak” ($7.95) automatically came with the canned variety, which I found repulsive. I looked it up, and while several Philadelphia cheesesteak stands do use canned mushrooms, it’s not a popular topping there.

Other sandwiches worthy of a visit to Bluto’s are the meatball hoagie ($6.95), a footer with six large, deliciously tender housemade meatballs, pizza sauce and mozzarella, and the chicken grinder ($7.95), a chicken Parmesan-type sandwich with breaded chicken cutlets, marinara, mozzarella and L.T.O. I recommend adding the offered oil and balsamic vinegar to this one.

Beyond the sandwiches, I must say that the pizza is wonderful. It’s described by owner Bruce “Bluto” Bailey, a comedic host with a quick wit and a welcoming attitude, as “an East Coast style meets Chicago deep dish. Typically it will be on the thin side but should not be confused with cracker style crust. It should be crispy on the outside but soft and chewy on the inside.”

The housemade dough and sauce absolutely make Bluto’s pizza. And isn’t that always the case? The toppings are pretty much the same wherever you go. Most of the pizza I had was exceptional, and the calzones (18 inches!) are also above average. I must take issue with the taco pizza, which doesn’t usually work for me no matter where I get it (excepting Fultano’s). The pile of fresh toppings is wont to waterlog and weigh down the pie, making consistent slice distribution an unenviable task. Also, a lighter, thinner taco sauce or hot sauce is preferable to thick salsa and sour cream which accompanied at Bluto’s.

That aside, I can recommend most of the pizzas and sandwiches at Bluto’s. Just make sure to specify if you don’t want canned mushrooms!

– The Mouth

mouth@coastweekend.com