A truly great restaurant has opened in Cannon Beach, and it is The Irish Table in midtown. Within what was – and to some limited extent, still is – Sleepy Monk Coffee Roasters exists a labor of love forged from the combined efforts of Sleepy Monk owners Jane and Victor Harding and co-owners Sean and Crystal Corbin.

The moment you cross the threshold you will warm to this place. Sean presides over the dining room, his acute waitstaff thoroughly trained in fine dining service and extremely knowledgeable regarding ingredients and preparation of menu items; if you ask a server a question, you may as well be talking to the chef. His handling of the front of house is every bit the equal of his wife’s superlative command of the kitchen and the magic within.

Crystal Corbin, coming off an eight-year stretch at Cannon Beach’s nationally-renowned Stephanie Inn, spent five years as sous-chef under John Newman (who left to open Newmans at 988 in Cannon Beach), and the last three as executive chef. 

Although The Irish Table doesn’t bill itself as “fine dining” (the owners might call it “casual elegance”), with the level of service and especially the level of food, it exemplifies the term. From start to finish, every moment spent at The Irish Table was perfect; no detail overlooked, each and every bite sublime. The glow of flickering candles enhances the soft, subdued lighting, which illuminates the wonderfully wooden atmosphere. I could elaborate on the surroundings, but you should see for yourself. 

The ever-changing menu features local, organic and sustainable ingredients, and is only 12 items deep: two appetizers, three salads, two soups and five entrees.

You’re started off with steaming hot brown Irish bread ensconced in linen and a dish of soft whipped butter. The first thing I tried was the cheese board, an item not to be missed. Three cheeses – a Cowgirl Creamery brie-style ripened triple-cream, a Welsh mustard seed and brown ale cheddar-style, and a bleu from Cashel, Ireland – were served room temperature with candied pecans, toasted Irish bread and two chutneys, cherry and apricot. This would make a wonderful finisher as well.

Sean mentioned that Crystal’s passion is soup, and it certainly shows. I was served the most perfect potato leek soup I’ve ever had; rich, velvety and smooth, with an internal garnish of bacon and a sprinkling of chopped scallions. In one spoonful you taste potato, then leek, then the bacon provides another level with salt and smoke, finally the fresh, crisp scallions release their essence and bring you back to the leek. Utterly transcendent, and that is just a simple soup. Crystal’s other offerings equally exude complexity shrouded in simplicity.

Her curried mussels alone are worthy of a visit. Having had bright-yellow, overpowering versions of this dish elsewhere, she admirably succeeds where many other chefs fail. The mussel is the star here, its liquor embellishing the subtle garlic, shallot and white wine cream sauce. Curry is evident, but restrained. The beauty of Crystal Corbin’s food is that you taste every ingredient equally; each one stands out even as it blends harmoniously with the others to form the final result.

The organic tomato salad is as beautiful as it is delicious. Sliced bright-golden heirlooms sprinkled with salt rest alongside cucumbers and Kingfisher Farms mixed greens tossed in a roasted garlic balsamic vinaigrette. A crunchy crouton topped with melted Irish cheddar garnishes.

And while Corbin’s food is certainly more “localvore” Northwest cuisine, she absolutely nails the Irish staples. Her Irish stew is very traditional – lamb, carrots, onions and parsley, with a rich red wine sauce over colcannon, a potato and cabbage mash. The lamb-shy need not fear gaminess, as the lamb is marinated for 24 hours prior to cooking. I can’t wait to have this tender lamb dish in winter with a spicy glass of Zinfandel.

The vegetarian shepherd’s pie is one of the best vegetarian dishes I’ve ever had. It’s no wonder that it is the most popular menu item at The Irish Table. Porcini, shiitake, cremini and oyster mushrooms in a rich sauce await beneath a thick blanket of Irish cheddar mashed potatoes. Served in the deep ceramic dish it was baked in, I loved scraping the caramelized bits from the rim. With the meatiness of the four kinds of mushrooms, this really doesn’t feel like a vegetarian dish.

The chicken and root vegetable pastie is also raised to an echelon far from its roots. I would almost rename it, because I’ve never had a pastie anywhere near this good. The rich, buttery pastry envelops perfectly-cooked chunks of chicken, onion, turnip, rutabaga and carrot. Pureed mushroom gravy softens the midsection crust as the two exposed ends of the pastry remain crisp; a wonderful texture contrast.

Even as refined and expertly prepared as the Irish fare is, the Northwest cuisine is even more so. A standout dish, the 10 oz. double-cut Carlton Farms pork chop is well seared, almost crisp on the outside, moist, juicy and perfectly medium within. The slightly sweet cognac reduction sauce is a perfect complement, as is the apple and parsnip puree on which the substantial chop rests. Tart, savory and sweet all at once, the puree has a perfectly smooth mouthfeel. Every facet of this dish succeeds.

A recent special of fresh, wild King salmon was wonderfully ethereal. Seared and poached, topped with browned butter over fingerling potatoes and fresh peas and parsley, my guest proclaimed it the best salmon they’d ever had.

Eschewing the more decadent desserts, we opted for the housemade sorbet to conclude a perfect meal. That night it was five berry served with chocolate and sugar shortbread cookies. Very tart, with just enough sweetness from the cookies, it was a wonderful consummation. Another visit ended with after-dinner drinks: Tir na Nog (espresso, Irish whiskey and whipped cream) and The Preacher (espresso, Frangelico, St. Brendon’s and Irish whiskey). A visit from the chef allowed me to bestow praise while I was mentally working out this more public tribute.

An astounding restaurant on par with The Depot, The Shelburne Inn and Nanci and Jimella’s, The Irish Table takes a seat among the best in this region.

The Mouth