Cannon Beach is home to many restaurants, almost 30, which is notable considering its size and population. While these eateries limp along all winter with just enough patronage to survive, this time of year they’re all busy. And while many of them are memorable, others exceptional, and a couple even nationally renowned, some of them really disappoint.

It’s a regrettable truth that restaurants in tourist-heavy communities shamelessly pad their prices, charge a little more for the typical fare in which they “specialize.” As a tourist, you might not care. After all, you’re also paying for the view (and the higher rent that comes with it), for the salty ocean air. Perhaps these businesses receive such little scrutiny precisely because the majority of their patrons are tourists.

But today I’m writing for the locals, who would be best off skipping the high prices and mediocre dishes offered by The Local Grill & Scoop.

And I’m referring to the Grill here, not the Scoop. It’s a fine place for a Tillamook ice cream cone, a sundae, a malted, a milkshake. Go in for a scone, a muffin, a croissant, a cinnamon roll with your morning espresso drink. Just don’t bother with the expensive meals.

Foregoing the salad bar, we chose a composed salad to antecede one meal. An apple and tuna salad over mixed greens with curry vinaigrette ($12.95) was pretty good, but a little costly considering the dry, flaky, canned tuna bits appearing here and there in the mix. At that price, fresh tuna is certainly in order, and wouldn’t negate the harmonious texture and flavor combination of thick red apple chunks, toasted hazelnuts, fresh greens and sweet and savory dressing.

Crumb breaded calamari rings ($12.95) were as chewy as old rubber bands … and just as tasty. The fried scallops dinner ($17.95) also featured the same crumb coating over medium sea scallops. Our server informed us that with the exception of the fish and chips, all the fried seafood, including clam strips and prawns, are shipped to the restaurant pre-breaded and frozen, ready-to-go. The Budweiser beer battered halibut fish and chips ($19.95), though cut and dipped in-house, were also disappointing, a bit soggy with bland, watery fish barely secure within the limp, greasy, tan outer layer. This is usually the result of battering wet fish without drying and flouring it first. A side of mashed red potatoes was delicious, obviously housemade. Vegetables did not fare as well. The boiled broccoli was wet and unseasoned, the baby carrots dry, pale and limp. No butter, no salt and pepper.

The patio area out front at The Local Grill & Scoop is a popular place to eat when the sun is out. Photo by Alex Pajunas.A dish of blackened salmon fettucine ($18.95) had its ups and downs. The 5 ounces of salmon (although three incongruent pieces, not a whole fillet) were moist and perfectly cooked, coated in a wonderfully piquant blackening blend; a piscatorial redemption. The overcooked fettucine noodles bound in an insipid, greasy cream reduction tasted of fat and nothing else. However, the grilled garlic French bread, crunchy, soft and steaming within, was absolutely wonderful. I ended up making a blackened salmon sandwich and skipping the pasta altogether.

The Grill & Scoop’s chowder ($4.95 a cup) is not to be missed – creamy, with perfectly balanced flavors. Small, fully cooked bits of potato, celery, and onion take a backseat to the plump chunks of clam. A most exemplary concoction.

Much of the menu darts about, trying to please everyone. Several burgers are available, most around $7 to $8. You can upgrade to “deluxe,” which gets you fast-food-style fries and lackluster coleslaw or a trip to the salad bar ($3.50 additional). A Cheeseburger Deluxe ($9.95) was unremarkable; a factory puck in a factory sesame bun.

Pizza is available as well. Ranging from $12.95 to $23.95, these are best left alone – spongy, bland crust with sweet, canned sauce and your choice of toppings. In a town with Pizza a’Fetta and Fultano’s, there’s no reason to stoop to eating this.

If you’re in the mood for Mexican, there are several items under the heading “South of the Border” – quesadillas, refried beans, etc. I had the chicken fajitas ($11.95), a plate of sliced chicken, bell peppers and onions in a mild sauce, sided by sour cream, factory salsa, factory guacamole and five warm, folded flour tortillas. This dish just about put me to sleep. No spice, no “zing,” so pedestrian.

With all the great places to eat in Cannon Beach, why settle? Walk to the beach with a waffle cone from The Local Grill & Scoop after you’ve eaten dinner someplace else.

Note: Tune in next week for a review of a new Cannon Beach restaurant worthy of your dollar.

– The Mouth

mouth@coastweekend.com