Before revisiting Geno’s after several years and a couple of ownership changes, I’d planned to review it in conjunction with another pizza place to compare and contrast, as I’d previously done in earlier pizza columns (Oct. 15 and Dec. 31, 2009). However, after sampling some of the other items that Geno’s proffers, I realized that I couldn’t ignore what I might call “supplemental menu filler” elsewhere.

This “filler” of which I write is found at most pizza parlors. They offer a variety of non-pizza, yet pizza-related foods (many of which easily capitalize on pizza ingredients already on hand) to customers who may want something slightly different. This generally entails sub sandwiches, pastas, various calzones and cheese bread or bread sticks.

While these things are a nice addition if you’re at the pizza place and for some reason someone in your party does not want pizza, they are certainly not the draw, which is why I generally avoid them just like I avoid the “American food” some ethnic restaurants think they need to serve. But Geno’s happens to have great burgers as well as great pizza, which is why they warrant further analysis.

In my book, there are three different kinds of hamburgers, and all can be good. Type A is the elite burger. This is the kind you get at a nice steakhouse or a fine dining establishment, or maybe something you’d make at home. They use good quality cuts of beef ground specifically for forming thick, half-pound patties. These come on a housemade roll with the finest accoutrements, and are best eaten rare to medium.

Type B is your fast food burger. This is what you get at school, at a drive-through, at a gas station. They use frozen slider pucks cooked all the way, topped with American cheese and confined to a cheap, spongy bleached-flour bun with an unholy shelf-life. You have to be in the mood for something like this.

Type C is in between. You’ll find it at truck stops, diners, prime-rib joints and some bars. This is the patty that’s wide, maybe thick, possibly previously frozen, but of premium quality. It comes on a big toasted sesame seed bun with special sauce and the usual veggies. It’s a mess to eat, but it’s what you order when you’re in the mood for a messy burger. Like those of The Logger, Custard King and Buoy 9, it’s a burger whose reputation precedes it.

At Geno’s, it’s called The Super. At 12 ounces, it’s an intimidating burger, and in all likelihood you won’t finish it on your own (or in a single sitting). And although Geno’s serves crinkle fries, tater tots, onion rings and waffle fries, I like this burger with the curlies; they seem to fit it. At $8.75, it’s a good price for a monstrosity burger. Add cheese and bacon (you might as well) and it’s $10.25. If you’re feeling especially fearless, Geno’s also offers the Double Super.

I would recommend Geno’s burgers as equally as I would their pizza. As far as pizza goes, Fultano’s has always been the gold standard, locally at least. Geno’s has always been a close second for me, in that while I didn’t like the dough/crust as much, I thought some of their signature pizzas were superior.

In my review of Fultano’s, I bemoaned their thick crust, concluding that unfortunately, it was as bad as their thin was good. And while the thin crusts of both places are wonderfully similar, with Fultano’s still having the edge with the cracker-crisp bottom and airy edges, Geno’s thick and pan crusts are far superior. Chewy, with a dark brown bottom and a little crunch, the thick crust really held up, even good the next day. The pan pizza was appropriately oily, and more dense, also a hit. I still prefer the thin crust, but wouldn’t hesitate to go thick or pan either.

Among the pizzas I tried were the Bartender’s Pizza (with Canadian bacon, beef, and tomatoes; good toppings for the pan-style), Lennon’s Pestorific (with a pesto sauce base, tomatoes, roasted garlic, mushrooms, jalapenos and pepperoncinis; spicy, not for everyone), Taco pizza (refried bean base, beef, chips, lettuce, tomato, onions, cheddar; I didn’t care for the beans, this pizza was heavy, overloaded, and unwieldy, Fultano’s is better), and my all time favorite, Peter’s Preference (tomato sauce, cheese, garlic, spinach and feta; great flavors, best on thin crust).

After enjoying the burgers so much, I tried three subs (all $6.25 for 5-inch, $8.25 for 10-inch): the Hot Hero with salami, pepperoni, ham, American “Swiss” and a vinaigrette; the Barbeque Beef and Swiss; and the Grilled Chicken Sub. The Hero had good flavors coming together with the vinaigrette, and the Barbeque Beef was pretty standard but good. Unfortunately, both were a little chintzy on the meat. The chicken sub used grilled fajita-marinated chicken, which was tender and flavorful.

On the whole, I would stick to the burgers and pizzas, which are among the best in town.

– The Mouth

mouth@coastweekend.com