Being a coastal food critic, I’m often plagued by a recurring dilemma: fairly reviewing restaurants that cater almost specifically to tourists. The chef in me inherently despises the dumbed-down, unoriginal, uninspired and often overpriced menu, while it also secretly roots for the food to be good, despite its mediocre fried seafood genre. There are exceptions of course, and these places then cease to be tourist restaurants, because locals return again and again.

Pudgy’s, located on Broadway in Seaside, is no exception.

Their large menu with “something for everyone” exhibits the standard array of foods that tourists apparently want when they visit our area. You are offered no less than eight “surf ‘n’ turf” options. Calamari, steamer clams, oyster shooters and shrimp cocktails sit alongside the trite, fried appetizers of jalapeno poppers, cheese sticks, onion rings and mushrooms to remind you that the ocean is near.

Casual, friendly and very attentive service is common this time of year when business is slow for places without a strong local following. It’s a great perk nonetheless, and in some cases slightly redeems the overall feel of a restaurant in hindsight – but does not go so far as to dismiss poor food quality. My visits to Pudgy’s were enhanced by great service, but fraught with mostly forgettable meals.

The dinner rolls are of the store-bought, super-soft, sweet variety – not my favorite, but a guest of mine excitedly made short work of them. The smoked salmon clam chowder ($3.25 cup, $4.25 bowl) was evenly seasoned and flavorful, but its library paste thickness put me off a little.

When asked, my server was surprisingly honest by informing me that none of the salad dressings were made in-house. Although I appreciate his candor (I’m frequently lied to in this situation), I really don’t understand the outsourcing. I noticed a business card at the front desk with the word “chef” on it. I can see a kitchen manager at a chain restaurant purchasing dressings by the gallon, but I don’t approve of locally-owned, chef-employing restaurants getting such easily made foods off of a truck.

The greens and vegetables in the salads were fresh and delicious, making my desire for housemade dressings all the stronger. A dinner Caesar salad ($6.50) was humdrum and contained far too many croutons.

As far as entrees are concerned, I haven’t much positive news to report. The grilled Pacific swordfish ($16.95) was properly grilled (about medium), but the texture suggested it was previously frozen. Served with the rubbery skin on, the accompanying sauce was a ramekin of tartar. I like to think even a touristy place like Pudgy’s can do better than that, but perhaps this is what their customers want.

Alaskan razor clams ($16.95, why not Pacific? I don’t know), also served with tartar sauce, were shoe-leather tough. This really irks me. Many people think they don’t like razor clams because of the rubbery texture they’ve encountered before. When tourists come to our area, we are obligated to represent our indigenous foods with proper preparation. Razors don’t have to be tough and rubbery, but (sigh) so often they are.

Always a fan of oysters – and Pudgy’s does serve the local variety of these – I was talked into trying them deep-fried ($15.95). I’d never had beer-battered oysters before, and probably wouldn’t order them again; this however, is a matter of preference, and there was nothing wrong with the dish.

Veal marsala ($18.95) was a big disappointment. The scallopines should be pounded very thin, lightly seasoned and floured, and cooked until just done. The proper execution yields a fork-tender result. The thick, tough, gummy (over-floured) slabs of veal I was served were way off the mark. The mushroom marsala sauce was okay, about what I’d expect on a chicken dish from the Olive Garden. The broccoli that accompanied all of the entrees was very mushy, quite overcooked.

A 10 oz. New York steak ($19.95) was average and satisfying, but its side of mashed potatoes was too salty. Another passable entree was the honey-dipped fried chicken ($13.95). I don’t know why it’s on the menu, I guess because people order it. Teriyaki chicken, lasagna, and fettucine alfredo don’t really belong either, but somehow fit anyway, because typical tourist restaurants like Pudgy’s always seem to have a little of everything, none of it extraordinary.

– The Mouth

mouth@coastweekend.com