SEASIDE – I’ve been eating at Mazatlan in Seaside for almost 20 years now, and am happy to report that the quality of food and service is still as good as it ever was. You won’t find many surprises, but for consistency’s sake, that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

Located on the east side of the road in the south end of Seaside, Mazatlan is easy to find. The interior décor is similar to most Americanized Mexican restaurants: brightly colored walls, murals of Mexican landscapes and families, interesting hanging sculpture art, and plants here and there. Service is very friendly, but not overly so. For instance, servers aren’t dressed like matadors, they don’t call you “amigo” or project any kind of “act” that seems forced. The mariachi bands I remember coming around to the table years ago are also absent.

Like most Tex-Mex restaurants, chips and salsa are brought immediately with your water. Here, they are very good:?The hot, fresh chips crumble in your mouth, and the salsa is neither too chunky nor too runny, too spicy nor too bland. A happy medium is found with both flavor and texture. Order the guacamole ($3.50), one of the better versions I’ve had, and you’ll have more chips than you’ll know what to do with.

There are many drinks to start with at Mazatlan, but the margaritas are absolutely unparalleled. I don’t know how they blend the ice so fine, but it’s truly amazing. As you sip, you’ll notice the bits of lime pulp suspended in the perfect slush. Ten flavors are offered, including strawberry, melon, mango, peach and blackberry, but I can never get away from the traditional lime. Unless that is, I order the Michelada, which is beer, lime juice and hot spices on the rocks in a giant, salt-rimmed mug. I drink it with Corona or Tecate, the milder Mexican beers.

The menu is absolutely huge, and so are the portions. Expect to take enough home for tomorrow’s lunch. The preparations don’t break any new ground, but when I eat at a place like Mazatlan I know what to expect: ground beef tacos and enchiladas covered with cheese, large burritos, various versions of nachos, taco salads and some higher-end offerings, most accompanied by beans and rice.

The fajitas ($12.95) are a do-it-yourself kit, with chunks of chicken breast, mushrooms and onion and pepper julienne in a slightly sweet sauce with flour tortillas on the side, and sour cream in a crispy corn tortilla bowl. Very good. The tamales ($1.95 each, and available in combo meals) are tender masa filled with shredded beef, covered in chile sauce and cheese. Tamales tend to taste dry sometimes, but at Mazatlan this wasn’t the case. The chile rellenos, cheese-stuffed chiles dipped in egg batter and lightly fried, were also a standout dish. I highly recommend the Tostada de Ceviche, lime marinated prawn chunks in a pico de gallo atop crispy corn tortillas and avocado. At $3.95, this is a real bargain. Another favorite was the Chile Verde ($12.50), slightly spicy, tender stewed pork in a flavorful tomatillo sauce.

The one adventurous item I spied and had to try was the Cocktail Chabela. Available hot or cold (I had the server-recommended cold), it’s a shrimp, oyster and octopus soup with avocado, tomatoes, onions and cilantro in a fish and lime broth, served in a large glass goblet. At $14.75, it is the most expensive item on the menu. I really loved the concept of the dish, but the octopus was very tough, and the raw oysters were large and cut in half, which was a big turn-off for me. My guest was revolted by the sight and later the taste of it, so I don’t recommend this for everyone. The server brought ketchup and saltines to eat with the soup, but I found this addition unnecessary.

I’m told that the combination meals are the most popular, and I can see why. For the price of most entrees, you can try three or four different things on a hot platter with beans and rice. My pressing disappointments with Mazatlan are that the lights are too bright after the sun goes down, and I wish there were more seafood options on the menu.?Besides the Chabela and another similar dish minus the oysters, prawns are the only seafood available.

I’ve spent many special occasions at Mazatlan. Birthdays, anniversaries, out-of-town guests, even my high school graduation party were held at Mazatlan because it’s a fun, affordable and consistently above-average place to go for a memorable night out.