When I arrived at Pizza Schmizza in Astoria, gale winds were blowing and floods were predicted. Sitting in my car under the red neon lights at the adjacent Video Horizons (under the same ownership), I wondered if Pizza Schmizza would open that day. It was past 11 a.m. (opening time). More storms were brewing, and according to the local networks, it was questionable whether people could get to work.

I was meeting a friend for lunch and happily, at 11:15, the doors opened and we were welcomed into the brightly colored restaurant. The pizza chef was not feeling well that day and had gone home, but owner Neal Cummings stepped in to help take care of customers.

When hard times hit the coast and it is cold and rainy, handmade pizza is a welcome source of warmth and flavor. We dove right in with the lunch special of the day – a slice of freshly baked pizza, a salad and soft drink for just $6. With crisp, yeasty crust, the Genoa pizza (with large slices of Genoa salami, mushrooms, olives, pepperoni and crumbled Italian sausage) had the perfect amount of spicy tomato sauce. My dining companion, who formerly lived in New York, demonstrated how to eat pizza “New York” style by folding it in half lengthwise in your hand and holding it upright to create the perfect bite.

The Extreme Veggie pizza, generously topped with mushrooms, roasted red and green peppers, spinach, onions, zucchini, black olives and garlic (all from local company Columbia Produce), was outstanding. The vegetables were packed with earthy flavors and cooked to perfection. Other veggie pizzas include Burrito, with a base of refried beans topped with red onions, tomatoes and jalapenos, and Foo Foo, made with marinated artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic and feta cheese.

Under “Meatzas,” the Genoa was a meat lover’s dream. My friend, longing for her “white pizza” from New York, ordered the Combo Classico with mushrooms, black olives and crumbled Italian sausage and asked them to substitute olive oil for the tomato sauce. She found it to be very tasty and authentic. Also under the meat section, you will find Ol’ Hickory, made with hickory smoked bacon, baby red potatoes and roma tomatoes, and Steak & Potato, made with marinated steak and baby reds – a customer favorite.

The Sweet ‘n’ Sour Pizza at Pizza Schmizza includes pineapple, sesame seeds, roasted red peppers and marinated chicken.I loved the flavor of the Spicy Thai chicken, made with garlic chicken, roasted red peppers, cilantro and a spicy peanut sauce (in place of tomato sauce), but I just kept wondering why? Why would I come to a pizza place for Thai food? Or for that matter, why would I come for Sweet ‘N Sour, made with sweet and sour chicken, roasted red peppers, pineapple and sesame seeds? It turns out these pies all have their fans.

Hands down, the most popular pizza at Pizza Schmizza is good old-fashioned pepperoni pizza, topped with molten cheese and large rounds of spicy pepperoni. This was definitely my favorite. The crisp, airy crust was perfectly cooked with a yeasty, nutty flavor – perfect for folding and sliding into the mouth – New York style. The specialty of the house is Alligator Pie, made with Louisiana farm-raised alligator sausage with red peppers, onions, tomatoes and feta cheese served on a bed of Mama Schmizza’s noodles.

Alligator sausage also turns up in a pasta dish called the Cajunator and is offered in the 35-ingredient list of “build your own” pizza toppings. Under salads, you will find Greek salad, a crisp bed of fresh spinach topped with fresh cucumbers, thick slices of tomatoes with oregano, red onions, kalamata olives and a zesty lemon-lime dressing. The Caesar Schmaesar, made with chopped romaine lettuce, croutons, shredded Parmesan and “creamy Schmaesar dressing,” was very generic.

All of Schmizza’s pies are handmade and tossed, using quality ingredients and fresh local produce. A variety of hot pizza by the slice is offered daily, displayed on silver pedestals behind the brightly-lit counter. Walls, painted in electric chartreuse and tangerine, are nicely contrasted with black chairs, tables and booths, and black-and-white checkered floor tiles. Everywhere you look, something grabs your attention – flat screen TVs, a row of video games in a side room, panels of video covers (from adjoining Video Horizons), a lineup of animated cartoon characters, and a wall filled with local drawings of “the perfect slice.” With classic rock, including Springsteen and Elton John playing in the background, Pizza Schmizza is an upbeat, colorful place. Pizza Schmizza is a franchise that opened its first location in Hillsboro in 1993. According to their Web site, their goal is to “create a fun gathering place with unique art, neon lights and the incredible aroma and taste of New York style pizza – an entertaining destination.” Astoria’s Pizza Schmizza has done just that and, to top it off, you can rent videos next door. If it feels a bit like Disneyland, it’s supposed to. Me? I would prefer to select a few videos, pick up a pizza or order one for take-out, light a few candles, open a bottle of good wine and enjoy my pizza “New York style” in the privacy of my own home or hotel room.

Either way, it’s a good slice of pie.