Thank you to all of our readers who have sent in comments on Tides & Tables. What I love about food is that it arouses passion in nearly everyone. Reviewing restaurants is difficult because taste is such a personal matter. In addition to the flavor, texture and presentation of food, many other aspects of dining contribute to our perception. These include the restaurant’s atmosphere, our own mood on a certain day, the weather, the service and much more. Often another person eating the same dish at the same time will have a completely different experience. When I review a restaurant, I invite as many different guests as possible to offer their opinions. My own experience is based on working for more than 20 years as a chef, food stylist, cooking teacher and food and wine writer.

The Caesar salad at Pacific Way Cafe in Gearhart is this reviewer’s local favorite.Over the past four months, we have received an interesting mix of comments on the reviews in Tides & Tables. One of the most controversial subjects has been my review on the Gower Street Bistro in Cannon Beach, of which I wrote both positive and negative comments. I mentioned in my review that, in one dish of chicken marbella, a stew made with braised chicken, olives, prunes and capers, the olives tasted off. One reader wrote in: “My wife and I had dinner Friday at the Gower Street Bistro, one of our favorite eateries over the 30 years we’ve lived here. I ordered the “rancid olive” meal of fame from the DA review. It had been, and remains, one of the top meals of my life.” He continues: “Stewart Brand, in the Whole Earth Catalog, said something that has always stuck with me when writing: ‘Don’t waste time and space on negatives. Review something good, that most people can get something out of.'”

As a reviewer, my job is to offer an opinion. Whether positive or negative, my reviews are based on my knowledge and experience of food and restaurants. I always include positive elements, but it is also my job to critique items, some that are repeatedly not up to standards. I appreciate the fact that not everyone agrees with me. We welcome comments from readers and will revisit restaurants, taking your comments into consideration. Most people I have spoken with agree with my assessment of the Gower Street Bistro. I will add that the restaurant offers a classy atmosphere, mostly very good meals, wine and classic cocktails.

The second most talked-about subject has been my mention of Caesar salad in a number of reviews. One writer, who identified himself “Nigel Bruce,” a now deceased actor who played Dr. Watson in the old Sherlock Holmes films, had much to say about my writing style. He mentioned that Caesar Cardini of Caesar’s in Tijuana is credited with inventing the recipe in 1924.

He also mentioned that my use of the term “served tableside,” was incorrect.

In fact, the best Caesar salad that I’ve ever had was served by Chef Lennin at his restaurant, Minny Lennie’s, in Cozumel. Lennin, who had learned to prepare the salad from Caesar Cardini in Tijuana, did, in fact, prepare everything at tableside. He started by stirring olive oil into the bowl, mixing in chopped anchovies, garlic and fresh lime. Whole baby romaine lettuce leaves shared the bowl. Two fresh coddled eggs and golden croutons sliced and sautéed on the tableside cart were stirred into the salad. Lennin dished up the salad himself while telling us stories of his cooking experience in Tijuana and his experience training with the late James Beard.

Since receiving “Nigel Bruce’s” note, I have done extensive research on the Caesar salad. Theories abound, but most reports (including some from Caesar’s daughter, Rosa, and Julia Child) show that most food historians believe Caesar salad was invented in Tijuana. Stories report that in 1926, Alex Cardini, a pilot in the Italian Air Force during World War I, joined his brother, Caesar, at his restaurant in Tijuana. Some say that the first Caesar salad was prepared in honor of pilots from Rockwell Field Air Base in San Diego. Alex Cardini added anchovies to the mix of ingredients, which also included Italian olive oil, mustard, Worcestershire sauce (which includes anchovies) and imported Parmesan cheese. The salad became a hit with celebrities including Clark Gable, Jean Harlow and W.C. Fields, who traveled across the border to dine at Caesar’s. Later, it became of favorite of Mrs. Wallis Warfield Simpson (wife of Prince Edward VIII of Wales), who had often visited Hotel Caesar’s in Tijuana during the 1920s. Upon her return to England, she taught her chefs how to recreate the original dressing.

It has been said that Mrs. Simpson was the first to start cutting the lettuce into bite-sized pieces, rather than keeping the lettuce whole, as it was intended. My idea of perfection is whole baby romaine leaves dressed in a creamy, anchovy and lime-laced dressing (thickened with coddled egg) that you can wrap around a freshly sautéed crouton topped with shaved Parmesan cheese.

Julia Child, with whom I had the good fortune of spending time at a food writer’s conference at the Greenbrier Resort in West Virginia, wrote: “One of my early remembrances of restaurant life was going to Tijuana in 1925 or 1926 with my parents, who were wildly excited that they should finally lunch at Caesar’s Restaurant.

“My parents, of course, ordered the salad. Caesar himself rolled the big cart up to the table, tossed the romaine in a great wooden bowl. I can see him break two eggs over that romaine and roll them in, the greens going all creamy as the eggs flowed over them. And garlic-flavored croutons and grated Parmesan cheese? It was a sensation of a salad from coast to coast, and there were even rumblings of its success in Europe.” Julia’s experience was very similar to my own.

Another article regarding JP’s in Cannon Beach elicited this: “I enjoyed the article, but I have a concern with anyone being a food critic who doesn’t know the history of the food. Lori’s comment about the Caesar salad which didn’t have anything remotely resembling anchovies on it is lame. Look at the history of Caesar salads. Caesar Cardini, creator of the salad, was opposed to using anchovies in his salad! … Other than that, it was a good article. Thanks Lori.” While Caesar didn’t use anchovies, he did use Worcestershire sauce, which includes anchovies.

Comments on Fulio’s grilled Caesar salad, which I highly recommended, elicited this: “I read your comments on Fulio’s Caesar salad, and thank you. The next time I pass by Fulio’s I’ll be sure to stop in and try it.” For readers’ information, I haven’t found a better Caesar salad on the coast than the one prepared at Pacific Way in Gearhart.

Other favorable comments came regarding my review of McMenamins Sand Trap. “Sounds like a great place, we’re looking forward to trying it this summer. The oysters sound especially like something I would love to try. Thanks for the great review!” A response to my article on peaches: “We dined at the Stephanie Inn earlier this month and loved the halibut fillet with organic arugula, snow peas and peach salsa, yum!”

Regarding a review on the Seaside Inn (now called Maggie’s on the Prom), one reader wrote “I have noticed this place many times when I ride my beach cruiser down the prom. I’m so glad to hear that they are now serving dinner and it sounds wonderful. We’re looking forward to giving it a try this summer. Thanks Lori!”

I loved this comment from one writer: “When, when, when will Lori be reviewing Pelicano in Ilwaco? I’ve been anxious to try it, but before I make the trek over there I would like to get some buzz on the place – does The Daily Astorian plan to make a review of this restaurant any time soon? With watering mouth and growling stomach, J.”

Yes, we do plan to review Pelicano soon. I’m happy to report that I recently visited and the food, wine and view were fantastic. I can’t wait to return.

Another reader raves about The Schooner 12th Street Bistro, recently taken over by the owners of the Hotel Elliott. She writes, “It’s the hopping place to be in town now and there were people lined up out the door waiting for a table last Friday night.” My lunch last week, a crab and cheese melt with Caesar salad and clam chowder, was tastefully prepared.

Wild mushroom lovers can look forward to the Long Beach Peninsula Wild Mushroom Celebration (Oct. 10 to Nov. 15), featuring the region’s top chefs and restaurants. Participating restaurants include The Depot, Port Bistro, 42nd Street Café, Boreas Bed and Breakfast, The Shelburne Restaurant and Pub, Tuscany Café and Jimella’s Seafood Market. For more information on the mushroom festival, visit www.funbeach.com