One sunny afternoon about three years ago, I was in Manzanita doing research on local restaurants when I ran into a friend, Rob Burns, a wine distributor who works for Columbia Distributors. He suggested that I should try a new place – Vino Manzanita. He walked me up the street to a tiny place hidden away on a side street, a place I would probably never have discovered on my own. When we walked in, I was instantly impressed by the wine bar’s sleek, sophisticated interior. Muted gray and olive green walls set the backdrop for a dramatic selection of very large, colorful paintings. Wine is stacked everywhere around the wooden bar, where a friendly bartender is always busy pouring wine and greeting guests. Small tables located inside and outside on the front and back patios (weather permitting) offer cozy nooks to linger over a glass of wine and a delicious sampling of “small plates.” Candlelight and tasteful music in the background contribute to the restaurant’s romantic atmosphere.

Vino Manzanita’s new owner/chef, Dixie Lee, just celebrated her first anniversary at the wine bar. Lee, who says she has always loved to cook, formerly owned an espresso shop and bakery and worked as a chef in Southeast Alaska. Her dream was to live at the coast, and when she saw that Vino Manzanita was for sale, she jumped at the opportunity.

Keeping with the original owner’s vision, the menu consists solely of small plates and perhaps a few specials of the day. “Last winter, I made homemade soups,” says Lee, “and people loved it.” On a recent visit, specials included chicken pot pie and a tasty chicken and tortilla dish with beans and salsa. Freshly baked bread comes from the local Bread & Ocean Bakery, and Nehalem-based Kingfisher Farm provides fresh organic produce.

Goat cheese terrine with olive, roasted garlic and pesto is one of the small plate meals that complement a glass of wine inside Vino Manzanita.The small menu offers a variety of top quality foods. Marcona almonds, which taste almost like a cashew (sweet and salty) and look like a flat hazelnut, are addictive. Manchego curado, a nutty flavored Spanish sheep’s milk cheese, is traditionally served with fruit preserves. One evening brought “plum membrillo” – fresh plums reduced to sweet perfection. When paired with crispy little rosemary-flavored crackers and a glass of Stafford Hill pinot noir from Oregon, it formed my idea of the perfect taste combination. On a recent night, black cherry preserves replaced the plum and were equally delicious with the cheese.

Mixed olives, including tangy green olives, Nicoise, Kalamata and more, are bathed in olive oil and herbs, offering the perfect accent to a crisp white wine such as Conti di Buscareto from Verdicchio, Italy. Lee’s goal is to change wines by the glass frequently, so that her guests can sample different wines. When you visit, don’t hesitate to ask for recommendations.

Purple Haze chevre, a goat’s milk cheese made in Sequim, Wash., is flavored with lavender and fennel and served with honey and nuts. A French goat cheese terrine, layered with basil pesto, olive tapenade, sundried tomatoes and roasted garlic, is heavenly spread on rustic bread. The antipasti plate is filled with an assortment of good things, including spicy salami, vintage white cheddar cheese, olives, almonds and crackers.

This is the season to enjoy insalata caprese made with fresh, organic baby tomatoes, fresh mozarella and aromatic sweet basil tossed in balsamic vinaigrette. Or perhaps you’d favor a mixed green salad with feta cheese, kalamata olives and nuts? Smoked salmon, from Gerard & Dominique in Seattle, is some of the best in the world. I had the good fortune of working with Dominique, doing food-styling and writing for their Web site. Of course, I needed to taste all of their products. A recent sampling of their smoked salmon at Vino Manzanita proves that they haven’t lost their touch. The salmon was rich, moist, sea-sweet and earthy all at once.

Save room for dessert. Pies, baked fresh from Nehalem Bay Pie Company, change with the seasons. A recent three-berry pie was a bit too sweet, but the crust was nice and crisp. There is also a layered decadent chocolate cake and handmade chocolate truffles from Columbia Chocolates in Astoria. A glass of port or a cup of coffee might add the perfect finish.

When I visited last week on a Wednesday evening, Vino Manzanita was bustling. It seems that this cozy little wine bar has filled a welcome niche in the local restaurant scene. I am very happy that it exists. It is perfect for evenings when you simply want a nice glass of wine, light tasty fare and good company.