TIDES & TABLES: The San Dune Pub in Manzanita gets a face lift

Published 5:02 am Thursday, July 3, 2008

A few days ago, workers finished the last touches on refurbishing the classic brick front on the San Dune Pub. The bricks were unveiled when the wind-worn shingles that stood for many years were removed. With the changes on the exterior come changes on the interior of the building and the menu.

I first visited the San Dune in the mid-’80s, when a late friend worked as the chef for the late L.E. “Bud” Kretsinger. Bud owned the San Dune for 24 years. During that time, the pub was legendary for its colorful character. In those days, the San Dune was dark and filled with cigarette smoke. Several years ago, a friend and I dropped in for fish ‘n’ chips. Outside, the sun was shining, but inside, as usual, the pub was very dark, seemingly lit only by the lights of lotto machines.

Today, with a huge skylight, outside patio and a “new” brick exterior, the San Dune is reincarnated. The lotto machines are now hidden behind a wall. Plank wood floors, a classic wooden bar and a huge stone fireplace create a rustic lodge feel. Combine this with grass mats on the ceiling and orchids and ferns over the mantle and you get a Tiki-beach touch – a surfer’s paradise. Add pool tables and four 50-inch big screen TVs to the equation, and all sports fans are sure to be satisfied.

“Our goal is to serve good food, not fast food,” reads the menu heading. “We feature homemade sauces and dressings from our family recipes. Please be patient.” Not much patience was needed on recent visits, where the service was quick and the food was delicious. Under “Light Fare,” antipasta skewers layered with tiny mozzarella balls, sundried tomatoes, artichoke hearts and kalamata olives offered a fantastic fanfare of flavor. Four skewers served with fresh pesto and flatbread made a perfect meal for me. The cheese quesadilla – a 10-inch wheat tortilla filled with molten cheese, jalapenos and salsa and drizzled with sour cream – was equally delicious.

The San Dune menu offers a number of burgers made with all-natural Piedmontese beef raised without hormones or antibiotics. The chipotle bacon burger, made with chipotle sauce and sliced jalapeno, was thick and juicy, with just the right amount of heat. Burgers come with a small packet of potato chips, but you can order a side of fries. Under “Wraps & Flat Bread Sandwiches,” a chicken Cobb wrap with lettuce, tomato and blue cheese was packed with flavor. Cranberry walnut chicken salad, served on a bed of crisp romaine lettuce, was topped with freshly poached chicken, dried cranberries and toasted hazelnuts. The house balsamic vinaigrette added the perfect sparkle. Calamari and fries was the only disappointment. The calamari was not crisp and seemed to have come pre-sliced and probably frozen.

Servings of antipasta skewers, a pesto flatbread sandwich and shrimp cocktail are ready to eat at the bar inside the San Dune Pub in Manzanita.For dessert, “Miss Laura’s Peanut Butter Pie” is not to be missed. Light and feathery, with a mousse-like texture and graham cracker crumbs, with chocolate nibs sprinkled on top, it is divine. The San Dune also offers seasonal homemade pies. Drop in for lunch or dinner at the San Dune and enjoy really good food and a light, casual atmosphere.

In step with many other major reviewers, Lori McKean awards up to five stars for a restaurant’s performance. Categories she considers are:

? Food

? Atmosphere/ambiance

? Service

? Consistency

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