Ever since I first tasted what I consider to be the ultimate Caesar salad (served tableside at a tiny restaurant in Cozumel, Mexico), I have been on a quest to find another that could match my “Holy Grail” of Caesar salads.

When I first heard about Fulio’s grilled Caesar salad (Seared Insalata di Cesare), I scoffed at the idea. But the more I heard about chef/owner Peter Roscoe’s grilled Caesar, the more curious I became. Unlike the dramatic tableside presentation I’d witnessed in Cozumel, there was no drama at Fulio’s. That is, until the flavors of Roscoe’s salad hit my palate. Here, in one seemingly simple dish, I found some of the most delicious, complex flavors and textures imaginable.

Sliced lengthwise, a whole heart of romaine lettuce is drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar before being set on a hot grill, just until the edges run golden. Tossed with a creamy Caesar dressing seasoned with two types of mustard, anchovies and garlic, the complex charcoal flavors and bitter crunch of lettuce are expertly showcased. Herbed “bread crumbs” and Pecorino and Romano cheese add the highlights. As I’ve since learned, Roscoe started serving his grilled Caesar in Portland a number of years ago at his popular Cozze restaurant and, since then, many restaurants have adopted his idea.

In addition to the grilled Caesar, there are a number of other good reasons to visit Fulio’s which, by the way, translates to mean “fulfillment.” During evening hours, the restaurant is romantically lit, with private booths and tables graced by candlelight and overhead blown-glass chandeliers. During daylight hours, light shines through an overhead skylight and river-facing windows. Forest green ceilings lend their way to Mediterranean colors of rust and ochre walls. Rooms are graced with elegant dark wood tables and intimate booths. Whimsical touches abound, including an assortment of colorful jesters – Fulio’s trademark. The acoustics are such that, if you want to listen in to the conversation at your neighbor’s table, you can. Or you can choose not to. Great background music ranges from opera to the Gypsy Kings.

When you dine at Fulio’s, you can’t quite see into the kitchen, but its presence is very evident through the wonderful scents and sounds of pans hitting hot flames and chefs conversing. Fulio’s began as a pastaria focusing mainly on pasta, and has since added “bistecca” or steaks. Other menu items include Pesce di Giorno, fish of the day, and Pollo (chicken) featured in three preparations, including a favorite, grilled Pollo Rosemarino, which is marinated in a tangy sauce flavored with lemon, rosemary and garlic.

Some of the items friends and I have sampled at Fulio’s have been outstanding. One meal, following a showing by Pink Martini at the Liberty Theater, was one of the best. Since then, some dishes have not reached the same standard. Appetizers at Fulio’s are some of my favorites. I could easily make a meal out of several appetizers and a basket of house bread (served with olive oil and balsamic vinegar), and a salad. Antipasto di Carne features a variety of thinly sliced Italian meats with olives and pepperoncini and Caprese features fresh, creamy housemade mozzarella with tomatoes and fresh basil, dressed in balsamic vinaigrette.

Recently, Melanzano di Pisa, a tower of preserved eggplant, roasted tomato, Portobello mushrooms and goat cheese, was very delicious, and would have been intoxicating, had it been served warmer. The goat cheese was cold and didn’t have a chance to release its flavor. Truly though, this is an eggplant and mushroom lover’s dream. Layers dressed with sundried tomatoes and olive oil melted together in lusty, earthy, meaty tones. It even charmed a friend who swore he would never like eggplant.

Pasta is a simple dish that, when done right, can transcend the heights of cuisine. Fulio’s Rigatoni Mutard e Salsiccia is one such dish. It is a favorite of many of Fulio’s customers. When a friend was craving a creamy, spicy pasta, this fulfilled his expectations and beyond. Rigatoni, large tube-shaped pasta, is the perfect vessel for capturing chunks of spicy sausage and a spicy mustard cream. Another outstanding pasta dish is Ravioli di Zucca – a butternut squash and Gorgonzola cheese ravioli bathed in a creamy curry sauce.

Fulio’s Fettuccini Alfredo, made with a creamy béchamel sauce, is offered as an entrée and a side dish. It comes with different toppings, including mushrooms and smoked salmon. While my side dish of Alfredo was creamy and the noodles were perfectly cooked, al dente, the sauce was overwhelmed by the sweet flavor of nutmeg.

Most recently, the fish of the day – swordfish – was a disappointment. Relying on our waiter’s advice (who told us that a fellow patron in the restaurant thought it was so good, she had returned for her third night), we bit the hook. Unfortunately, the pale, unadorned fish looked forlorn on the plate, without even a slice of lemon, fresh herbs or sauce to garnish it. The fish tasted fresh, but it was dry and tasted only of olive oil. The small portion of smashed garlic potatoes on the side and three spears of undercooked asparagus did little to enhance the experience. On another visit, grilled ahi tuna wasn’t much better. And I didn’t understand the guacamole-like avocado and sundried tomato salsa that came with it.

I love rib-eye steak and, when I order one, I expect a big, thick, juicy, bone-in well-marbled steak. So, when I ordered Fulio’s rib-eye steak, Bistecca d’ Abruzzo, I was expecting just that. What I got was a disappointing, refined version of a rib-eye. The charcoal flavor was delicious, the grill marks were perfect and the meat was perfectly cooked, but the skinny 1-inch boneless steak had an odd, figure-eight shape and it lacked the wonderful crisp fat that I love in a rib-eye. Perhaps this is a leaner, healthier version of steak?

I wish that Fulio’s would warm their serving plates. Halfway through the meal, the food turns cold. The house bread would reach new levels if it was served warm.

Moving on to dessert: Fulio’s features about five housemade selections, including a flourless chocolate torte and a crustless lemon cheese cake. If you are a member of the tiramisu fan club, you will want to try Fulio’s version. Fulio’s does it right. Traditionally, tiramisu is layered with ladyfingers soaked in coffee, liquors, Marsala and other goodies, whipped mascarpone cheese, custard and shaved chocolate. I’m not sure exactly how Fulio’s does it, but this, combined with a cup of deep, rich freshly brewed coffee, was a delicious ending.

Watch for Peter Roscoe’s Italian Deli, adjacent to Fulio’s, which is opening soon.