SEASIDE – Several Coast Weekend readers requested a review of The Stand in Seaside. Having heard great things about The Stand for years (especially from friends who surf), I was happy to oblige.

You could call it “soul food for surfers,” or one of Seaside’s best-kept (but not so secret) restaurants. There are no billboards or neon lights to advertise The Stand – just a small, faded hand-painted sign on the front door. One could easily drive past without realizing that the restaurant exists, but faithful customers keep returning. They spread the word, and the business keeps on growing.

Owners/chefs José and Tami Saucedo opened The Stand (formerly on Avenue U) 13 years ago, where they developed a following for their tasty, reasonably priced Mexican food among surfers, wave watchers and beachcombers. Since they moved to their current location, fans are still coming. The Stand is light and airy, featuring hand-made beach glass mosaic tables (made by Tami), terra cotta tiled floors and a hand-painted mural depicting a peaceful beach scene. From a few tables, a glimpse of Tillamook Head is visible through the maze of nearby hotels.

Before moving to Seaside, José and Tami owned a restaurant in Bend called “The Taco Stand,” which customers came to refer to simply as “The Stand.” When they relocated to the coast, they decided to call their new restaurant “The Stand.” The name fits, as José (who does most of the cooking), says he likes to keep things simple. For José, his cooking might seem simple (José was raised 120 miles east of Mexico City, where he grew up eating and cooking his native foods), but for those of us who are not versatile in Mexican cooking, the flavors and textures of his food are beyond simple – they are complex and exotic.

All salsas (there are five), including enchilada sauce, chile relleno sauce, green tomatilla sauce, spicy-hot red chili sauce and fresh salsa (with tomatoes, onions, chilies and cilantro) are handmade. Fresh salsa comes with each dish and squirt bottles filled with green tomatilla and hot red chili sauce are available at each table. The Saucedos make their own corn tamales and corn tortillas. They also roast and hand-shred all their own meats (including pork, chicken and beef). Vegetables are grilled fresh daily. Every ingredient is as fresh as possible. “Consistency” is a word often used to describe food from The Stand and it is something José and Tami take pride in.

Tacos include a carne asada taco on a homemade corn tortilla filled with nicely charred grilled beef topped with pico de gallo salsa and lime. The American taco is topped with a choice of shredded pork, beef or chicken, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato and salsa.

Steamed in a toasty cornhusk, pork tamale was fragrant with savory aromas of masa harina, roast pork and chilies. The flavors were delicious, warm and comforting. Chile relleno, made with a green chili and jack cheese dipped in egg batter, was my least favorite of The Stand’s dishes. The eggs were a bit overcooked and they overpowered the chili. A chicken quesadilla – a grilled flour tortilla packed with roasted chicken, melted cheese and salsa – was cooked to perfection. Seven burritos listed on the menu range from a spicy vegetable burrito made with grilled zucchini, mushroom, bell pepper and celery with salsa, lettuce, tomato and cheese to a combo burrito, with a choice of meat and pinto or black beans with rice, cheese and sour cream. A chicken burrito with black beans was filled with tender chicken and perfectly cooked beans – a meal in itself.

The Stand’s menu features a wide variety of dishes, from quesadillas to nachos, combination plates, burritos, tacos, tostadas and enchiladas, with sides of guacamole, grilled veggies and more. Given the quality of foods and the creativity involved, it is hard to believe that the most expensive item on the menu (a combination plate with chile relleno, vegetable tamale and a cheese quesadilla, served with rice and beans) costs just $8.25. Many single items, including tacos and enchiladas, are less than $5. The portions are generous and the food is very good. Along with many other fans, I give The Stand a well-deserved standing ovation.