Bell’s View Interpretive Trail is short, but oh-so-sweet
Published 2:20 am Thursday, November 7, 2013
- <p>The overlook at the end of the Bell's View Interpretive Trail in Cape Disappointment State Park, Ilwaco, Wash.</p>
For most people, a visit to Washingtons Cape Disappointment State Park just isnt complete without a glimpse of the North Head Lighthouse that cliffside guardian and faithful watch-keeper over the tumbling, churning waters that make up this infamous stretch of the so-called Graveyard of the Pacific.
Trending
For more than 100 years, its steadfast light has served as both warning and welcome helping sailors keep clear of the treacherous rocks below, while also ushering them safely toward the southern cape and the mouth of the Columbia River. Its a charming, scenic page straight out of the history books, replete with stunning ocean views and seasonal tours to the top.
But if youve traveled the winding road across this ancient basalt precipice and never taken a turn on the adjacent Bells View Interpretive Trail, then in every respect, youre really only seeing half the picture.
An equal partner in the shared story of this historic headland, Bells View was named in 1937 for Pacific County Commissioner Thomas H. Bell a towboat captain, Washington state legislator, sheriff, and the eventual driving force behind the plan that secured this spot as the first part of Cape Disappointment to be set aside as a public park. Today, his vision for a place that preserves the historic and natural aspects of this unique environment with access for all comes entirely to fruition along this recently renovated, fully paved, handicapped-accessible trail letting one of the state parks best kept secrets happily out of the bag.
Trending
Cloistered within the shadows of a towering forest of spruce and hemlock, this easily overlooked trailhead picks up just behind the main parking area on N. Head Lighthouse Road, where an interpretive panel the first of five introduces visitors to this gentle, quarter-mile-long route to the sea. From there, the trail makes a short, slight incline before leveling off and settling down into the more graceful slopes and turns that are its nature. Lolling through woodland ferns and thick salal, the sheltered, canopied pathway opens occasionally to offer sneak peeks at the lighthouse below, and, at every turn, tells a story of the theme that dominates this entire landscape the weather.
Climate data has been measured, recorded and communicated from the residents and workers on North Head for more than a century.
The U.S. Weather Bureau operated a station here from 1902 to 1955, and the U.S. Naval Radio Service followed suit for two decades of its own, beginning in 1907. Spend any amount of time on these rugged cliffs and youll soon see why. As one panel reads: Its never a question of if the wind is blowing, only how fast and from what direction.
From this superior perch above the sea, the stations transmitted weather conditions, storm warnings and Columbia River bar observations all the way back to Portland and far across the Pacific, playing a dynamic role in maritime safety that perfectly complemented the more static pose of the headlands landmark lighthouse.
To walk the Bells View Interpretive Trail is to follow in the footsteps of the men and women who made their lives at the edge of the continent, under harsh conditions and temperamental skies. Its a perfect path through the forest of history, guiding visitors past an antiquated wooden water tower, through a wonderland of lush vegetation, and even alongside the remnants of a top-secret World War II surveillance center. But of course, the very best reason to visit Bells View, is the view itself.
From the seven-sided overlook at trails end typically a 15-minute walk from the parking area visitors of every age and level of ability can easily experience unparalleled views of the 28-mile sweep of the Long Beach Peninsula a scene not offered from any other vantage point, and one that on a clear day can stretch to include the Olympic mountains. Whether you add it to your lighthouse adventures or experience this worthy path all on its own, dont make the mistake of forsaking Bells View for even a moment longer. Its the flip-side to a headland youve always loved, with an unbeatable view youre sure to end up longing for in any weather.