Chris Ferguson, left, and Ashley Plumle, both of Richland, Wash., enjoy a laugh while eating the char-broiled hamburgers at Sam's Seaside Cafe.

When Karen and Eric Nelson opened Sam’s Seaside Café in July 1996, they named the restaurant after their son, Sam, who was then just 2 years old. The space formerly housed a sushi restaurant that lasted just three months. “Some people say this was the site of the original Norma’s,” says Karen. “Others said this site was jinxed, because businesses couldn’t succeed here, but we’ve been here for 13 years and are still going strong.”

Sam’s oozes old Seaside rustic. With walls painted baseball-park-mustard-yellow, plywood and naugahide booths, rows of mirrors, wicker chairs and tables, picnic tables, beams with tole-painting, Casablanca-style ceiling fans and a funky old bar in back, it is classic.

The food is classic too. Hand-cut French fries are some of the best I’ve tasted. Potato chips are also deep-fried in-house. Homemade soups include thick, creamy clam chowders, spicy chili topped with cheese and onions and soup of the day. On a recent visit, wild mushroom and barley soup (made with portabella, shiitake and button mushrooms) was hearty and packed with mushrooms and beef essence. Every Monday, Sam’s lunch special features cream of tomato soup served with a grilled cheese sandwich. “I tried taking this off the menu,” says Karen Nelson, “and the locals got really upset – they love it.”

Salads include Sam’s Cobb salad, chef salad (made with fresh greens topped with meats, cheeses and hard-boiled eggs), and a classic Shrimp Louie made with Oregon bay shrimp, avocado and egg. Spinach salad, made with crisp fresh spinach, red peppers, tomato, bacon and egg, is tossed in a tangy raspberry vinaigrette.

Family specials include a Chicago-style 1/4-lb. hot dog “with all the fixings,” and homemade meatloaf sandwich. Seafood is a specialty at Sam’s. When in season, crab, salmon and other fresh fish are offered as specials. Made with moist, fresh Pacific halibut, fish ‘n’ chips are crisp and golden. Deep-fried coconut prawns were nicely breaded, but the pepper-raspberry dipping sauce was overly sweet. The menu also features steamer clams in ale, fried oysters, a Pacific halibut sandwich and more.

Charbroiled burgers, including a garlic lover’s burger smothered in crushed garlic, and the Big Joe Burger, among others, are thick and juicy – great all-American fare. A wide variety of hot and cold “Sam-wiches” includes a Philly steak sandwich made with sliced ribeye, sautéed onions and Swiss cheese, and Mac Daddy, made with roast turkey and melted cheese. Sam’s menu offers something for everyone. While you’re waiting for your food to arrive, you might want to check out the basket full of Mr. Potato Head dolls – fun for young and old.

Coconut prawns, a shrimp melt and salads wait at the window inside Sam’s Seaside Café for delivery to a table.